Review: Marcado 28 Tequila – Blanco and Reposado
We’ve encountered plenty of movie and rock star-backed tequila brands, from George Clooney’s Casamigos, arguably the tequila that lit the fire for the Hollywood obsession, to Matthew McConaughey’s more recent Pantalones, among so, so many others. What we don’t see as much are celebrity chefs throwing their weight behind a tequila brand. Which, well, is somewhat surprising. The only example I can think of offhand is Guy Fieri and his Santo brand, which is incidentally a partnership with Sammy Hagar, the original tequila celebrity who brought the world Cabo Wabo in the late ’90s.
We can now add at least one other name to the short chef-inspired list: Food Network star and Michelin-decorated restauranteur Michael Voltaggio. The well-tatted cook has teamed up with the Romo Family for Marcado 28, a new brand that claims inspiration from the irreverent art of tattoo culture. The name means “marked” in Spanish while the number 28 refers to a biblical passage that warns against tattooing. The bottle pictured above is decorated with art by Austin-based tattoo artist Billy Baca.
The Romo Family behind the actual tequila production are tenth generation agave farmers and something of tequila royalty laying claim to the creation of the reposado category way back when. They make Marcado in small batches from 100% blue Weber agave that is slow steam-cooked at lower temperatures and pressures than the industry standards then open fermented and pot distilled. They presently bottle just two expressions: a blanco and an 8-month oak-aged reposado expression. Thoughts follow.
Both are 80 proof. NOM 1502.
Marcado 28 Blanco Tequila Review
The aroma is sweet and expressive with notes of spun sugar and vanilla taffy that somewhat outshine greener elements of cooked agave and fresh cut grass. As it opens, the sweetness dissipates somewhat, settling into minted syrup and aloe with traces of bubblegum. While a bit saccharine, especially for a blanco expression, it’s still inviting with plenty of clean, crisp agave undertones.
The palate is round and almost creamy with early notes of agave pulp and lemon peel that give way to sweet cinnamon candies, vanilla ice cream, and hints of jackfruit. Subtle notes of white pepper add some warmth but not much. It’s an impressively easy sipper, even compared to plenty of other 80 proof tequilas. The finish is light and short with a reprise of bright citrus zest and subtle, grassy agave notes. If you’re in the market for an effortless tequila that’s a bit more sweet than herbal, this is your jam. B+ / $50
Marcado 28 Reposado Tequila Review
While it’s quite light in color, the oak aging still manages to present itself on the nose, complementing the vanilla sweetness of the distillate with a richer buttercream note and subtle hints of cinnamon sugar and warm oak. Sweet, cooked agave takes over as it opens in the glass, accented with white pepper and a bit of green chili.
Like the blanco, this reposado is again quite round and mouthcoating on the palate. The creaminess works even better though in this expression as early notes of caramel sauce and even a little milk chocolate nicely complement the rich texture. A burst of juicy citrus on the midpalate – mostly orange and a little lime – is followed by soft pie spice, a gentle vanilla cream note, and subtle black pepper on a generous, warming finish. The barrel aging has added complexity but also helped to temper some of the sweetness in the blanco, making it an even better sipper and cocktail base. A- / $60
Marcado 28 Blanco Tequila
USD50
