Review: 8 Non-Alcoholic Beers of Athletic Brewing
San Diego’s Athletic Brewing has made a huge name for itself in the non-alcoholic beer space, proving handily that very high-quality brews can be made, even with their alcohol stripped out. Lately Athletic has expanded into less common NA beer styles and even the kind of collaborations you’d normally only see from larger and more mature craft operations. Its latest, Marine Odyssey, is a collaboration with Netflix. So — big time stuff going on here.
Recently we received the mother of all sample shipments from Athletic — eight beers in total — and we’ve been working our way through to taste them all. Ready to get your brew on — sans the alcohol? Let’s dive in.
Athletic Brewing Upside Dawn Golden – Mild, lemony, with a significant and lasting bitterness. The pale color helps this come across a lot like a shandy, though there’s plenty of bite on the finish to wash away any hints of fruit up front. A fine, if largely innocuous, starter NA brew. B
Athletic Brewing Run Wild IPA – A hearty, west coast-style IPA, with no fruit visible. Very hoppy and aggressively bitter, and slightly green on the lingering finish. It’s the punchy body that makes the most impact here — a rounded, mouth-filling quality that really adds to the authenticity (so to speak) of the expression. Come prepared for the hops, though. A-
Athletic Brewing Free Wave Hazy IPA – Moderately hazy in tone, but just about as bitter and straightforward as Run Wild. There’s a clearer citrus quality on the finish, driven by Amarillo, Citra, and Mosaic hops, but it lacks the big fruit smoothie quality you expect to find in the typical hazy. That citrus does add something, however though the impact is rather subtle. This is ultimately a kissing cousin to Run Wild; fans of one should gravitate to the other just as easily. A-
Athletic Brewing Lite – A standard Athletic brew is only about 55 calories, so there’s not a lot of fat here to cut. But cut Athletic has done, down to a mere 25 calories and 5 grams of carbs. The resulting beer is indeed as light as anything you’ve ever tried, a gently lemony and lightly grainy experience that makes a can of Michelob Ultra come across as beefy. It’s actually OK, and not unpleasant in the slightest, but its primary function really seems to be one of providing hydration. And that’s fine. B+
Athletic Brewing All Out Extra Dark – Dark N/A beers are fairly rare, but All Out is proof that they shouldn’t be. Tons of flavor awaits the first sips here, including a chewy coffee bean character, very dark chocolate, toasted caramel, and finally some bittering, rye-like spices. There’s enough punch and a rich enough body in all that to mask the lack of alcohol quite well. A twist of grapefruit peel and a bit of lemon give the finish a whiff of fruit but also some extra bitterness, evoking an authentic porter. A-
Athletic Brewing Mexican-Style Copper – The “Copper” in the name is important: This isn’t a pale lager but a surprisingly rich and toasty expression that features a gentle caramel note, a light touch of toasted nuts, and a clean, lemony finish. Of all Athletic’s beers, this may be the best at masking its 0% abvness, thanks to a rather rich body that has plenty of grip to it. There’s a spark of acidity along with a reprise of almonds and toasted wheat bread on the conclusion, adding complexity to what could otherwise have come across as simple. Probably my favorite of this batch. A
Athletic Brewing Host & Toast – Belgian-style white beer with Meyer lemon and grains of paradise. This does evoke a classic witbier experience right away, and the Meyer lemon is no joke, making for a beer that is instantly bright with citrus, leading to a green tea quality as that rush of fruit fades. The finish sees the lightest hint of pepper alongside a lightly bitter orange peel character. The only challenge here is the body, which is very light and cleansing — but almost to a fault. How this one packs in enough carbs to hit 70 calories, I don’t know. B+
Athletic Brewing Marine Odyssey IPA – A collaboration with Netflix and its Our Oceans documentary. This is a mild spin on Run Wild, a little hazier and a little fruitier, but still with the pedal firmly down on bittering hops. Hints of grapefruit and lemon, plus a light floral touch, linger on the lengthy finish. Does not make you think about the ocean at all. A-
each $14 per six-pack
Athletic Brewing Marine Odyssey IPA
$14
