Review: Diageo Scotch Whisky Special Releases 2024
Review: Diageo Scotch Whisky Special Releases 2024
Last year, Diageo dubbed its Special Releases “Spirited Xchange,” reflecting that many of the releases shared DNA thanks to exotic finishes in rum, tequila, and other exotic casks. For 2024, the idea is back: “showcasing the contemporary perspectives, techniques, and unique flavors that define each expression found within the collection. While this is the second installment of the Spirited Xchange theme, it builds on the over two decades long legacy of Special Releases, a collection that continues to celebrate exceptional and rare whiskies. Spirited Xchange 2.0 reimagines the essence of iconic brands through adventurous cask combinations and unexpected flavor profiles like the collection hasn’t seen before. Each expression in this collection serves as a platform for innovation, demonstrating how curiosity and creativity can be inspired through culture, flavor and craftsmanship.”
For the most part Spirited Xchange 2.0 is just as out-there as the 2023 version was, including some bizarre cask types that I’ve never seen used in the whisky world to date — though a few expressions have emerged this year in relatively tame, grounded fashion.
No sense talking about it, though. There’s nothing much else to do but pour ’em into a glass and see how they fare. Spoiler: This year’s lineup features an embarrassment of riches. Here we go!
Lagavulin “Fireside Tales” 12 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
Matured in first-fill and refill ex-bourbon and refill sherry butts. A return to simpler construction compared to 2023’s Lagavulin, which was finished in Don Julio casks. This cuts a reasonably familiar profile for the whisky, which offers a briny, ashy nose — though the more overt bonfire notes are relatively restrained for Lagavulin. Phenolic on the palate, there’s an ample citrus character here that imbues the whisky with an unexpected level of fruit. The smoke lingers in the back of the throat like a well-crafted cigar, then takes a turn that’s moderately salty, finishing on a maritime punch of seaweed. Straightforward but delicious, the sherry barrel having just the right tempering effect. 114.8 proof. A- / $180
Mortlach “Midnight Dusk” Limited Edition 2024 Review
No age statement; matured in refill and ex-bourbon American Oak, then finished in Ramandolo white wine and Sangiovese red wine casks. Ramandolo is a sweet Italian white wine. Heady, aromatic nose — quite perfumed with notes of white flowers — that Ramandolo doing some heavy lifting — but also an undercurrent of mushroomy turned earth, more present with time in glass. Paired with a surfeit of vanilla and a sandalwood character, the whisky ultimately evokes something closer to a men’s cologne than a classic perfume. Sweet and fruity on the palate, this would be a very creamy whisky were it not for a powerful internal heat and heavy layer of baking spice and some black pepper. More of that mushroomy earthiness comes into focus as well, tempering the initial rush of apples and lemon. On the finish: chewy notes of almond nougat and a pinch more of pepper. 115 proof. A- / $300 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
The Singleton of Glen Ord “Autumn Walk” 14 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
Complex: “Matured in three parallel paths, respectively in ex-bourbon, rejuvenated ex-wine and refill casks, the latter all transferred after ten years for extended finishing in a mix of experimental casks with European Oak and unique Pyrenean Oak cask-ends.” Singleton releases are often fruity and mild, but this whisky is punchy and downright hot, the nose brisk with cinnamon, cloves, and pepper, layered with notes of dried orange peel which only add more spicy fragrance. Sharp on the palate, and a little gritty and heavy with spice. A variety of pepper notes dust the top, then a strong — and surprising — floral punch. The finish returns to citrus, adding in green banana, then more spice. Water really helps tame the beast, coaxing out an almond note that is elusive without it. I wouldn’t drink this any other way than with a splash. 109.4 proof. A- / $155
Talisker “Tidal Churn” 8 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
Young Talisker matured in refill and ex-bourbon American oak, then finished in “stone-spun and toasted American oak casks.” What does stone-spun mean, you ask? “The process, inspired by the ocean’s swirling churn, sees the powerful rotations of stone against wood, wearing away the char with stones and water. After the stone spinning, the casks are gently re-toasted, before finishing the whisky.” Rock tumbler as aging cask? Sounds exotic, but the results however are pretty much pure, unadulterated Talisker. The nose is moderately smoky and laden with brine, with a gentle undercurrent of fruit on display — apple, and some pear. The palate blends those two elements well — lots of sweet, extracted fruit up top, with a modest smokiness underneath. Chewy, plenty of saline, and biting at the back of the throat thanks to a significant abv. It’s cracking with rock salt and ashy beach bonfire as the finish builds, with a twist of lemon to round things out. 117.4 proof. B+ / $105
Roseisle “The Origami Kite II” 12 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
The second expression of Roseisle from Diageo’s youngster (the distillery is just 14 years old), aged in first-fill ex-Bourbon and refill casks — so not much of an Xchange to report. Floral and fruity up top, this is probably the most readily accessible and feminine whisky in this year’s lineup, a sunny exploration of citrus, candlewax, and prom corsages straight from their plastic shell. Toasty grains and lots of sweetness give the palate a breakfast cereal quality similar to its 2023 predecessor, a melding of vanilla with baking spice, brown butter, and almond overtones. Less biting/peppery than the previous iteration, likely due to the use of refill casks, though the floral hints on the finish are readily detectable. 111.2 proof. A- / $150 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Benrinnes “Grand Crescendo” 21 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
“Matured for 8 years in refill casks then double matured for 13 years in wine-seasoned American oak, European oak, and rejuvenated casks with charred ends.” No info on that wine seasoning, alas. The oldest in the lineup this year, though a relatively spry 21 years of age, this brisk Speyside offering doesn’t rock the boat but rather comes across like a greatest hits of the regional style: Malty biscuits, orange peel, and significant florals on the nose are balanced by a healthy layer of pepper and spice. Remarkably similar on the palate: This is a warming, spicy, citrusy whisky with overtones of nougat, marzipan, and Frosted Flakes, moving gently into notes of coconut though well-dosed with pepper and baking spice on the lasting finish. Nothing not to like here, but those seeking new horizons may come away a little disappointed at this price. 110.8 proof. A- / $480 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Oban “Coastal Orchard” 10 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
Matured in refill American Oak with some of the whisky finished in freshly charred Oloroso-seasoned American Oak casks. Compared to last year’s rum-finished Oban, this is remarkably tame. It is nonetheless a beautiful little whisky, fresh and lightly doughy — literally like a cream-filled doughnut — with aromas of vanilla and lemon curd, then a dusting of brine and white pepper. About as easygoing as it gets, this whisky hits the palate with more vanilla, then milk chocolate and salted caramel. From there we get a light touch of greenery as a savory, coastal edge comes into focus. Notes of coconut husk and hazelnuts linger on the finish. Refreshing, with just a pinch of seaweed and salt on the back end to remind you where Oban sits. 116 proof. A- / $120
Caol Ila “Ambrosial Feast” 11 Years Old Limited Edition 2024 Review
“Matured in refill, rejuvenated, and rejuvenated ex-wine American and European oak casks,” including wine casks. Designed to showcase the lighter side of Caol Ila — is there one? — this unpeated expression noses in a far different fashion than you might normally expect, even for unpeated Caol Ila, pushing more of an ashy graphite note alongside notes of seaweed and wet mushroom, followed by nutty aromatics. The palate builds on that. Again it’s not particularly smoky but it is extremely savory, evoking elements of roast beef, chestnuts, almond butter, and white pepper, something that wouldn’t be out of place served in advance of a Thanksgiving turkey. On the finish: Candlewax, spent matches, and almond shells. But mostly it’s really… weird. I’ve tasted numerous unpeated Caol Ila releases but this one somehow lives in a purgatory between those styles and the classic, peated version. I sat with it forever and struggled to make sense of it, ultimately failing. 114.6 proof. B / $110 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Roseisle "The Origami Kite II" 12 Years Old Limited Edition 2024
USD150
Related posts:
I was really looking forward to the new special releases and, apart from the Benrinnes and the Mortlach, I was unfortunately somewhat disappointed. I would have liked another real cracker. Well, maybe next year.