Review: Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond 17 Years Old Spring 2022 Edition

Review: Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond 17 Years Old Spring 2022 Edition

Review: Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond 17 Years Old Spring 2022 Edition

The first bonded Old Fitzgerald release for 2022 is here, and it’s an old one: At 17 years of age, it’s the oldest Old Fitz in the series to date, the next oldest being a 16 year old that was only made available at Heaven Hill’s distillery in 2020.

As always, this bourbon is designed in the style of the Van Winkle and Larceny bourbons, using wheat instead of rye in the mash.

Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond 17 Years Old Spring 2022 Edition Review

At 17 years of age, I came into this experience expecting a huge punch of woody barrel char, but was surprised to find things designed surprisingly to the contrary. The nose is sharp, heavy with notes of cherry and an intense perfume character, with a racy-spicy sweetness that makes me think of Pop Rocks. The palate is again incredibly sweet to the point where I’d say it’s sugary. Again, it’s wholly unexpected given this whiskey’s age, and difficult to parse, with notes of pie crust, custard, and intense sesame — like a dessert you might get at a dim sum restaurant. There’s a perfumed, floral element here that turns a bit soapy as it throws out notes of vanilla en route to the finish, where touches of jasmine and lilac linger. Again, the conclusion is intense with sweetness, granulated sugar notes threatening to send you straight to the dentist.

A much different whiskey than Old Fitz has been putting out lately, and while I’m all for change, something here has gone a little wonky.

100 proof.

B / $85 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond 17 Years Old Spring 2022 Edition

USD85
8

Rating

8.0/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

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