Review: Wheel Horse Bourbon

Review: Wheel Horse Bourbon

Review: Wheel Horse Bourbon

Wheel Horse Bourbon — from Latitude Beverage Co., in partnership with Owensboro Distilling Company (formerly O.Z. Tyler) — is the follow up to Wheel Horse Rye, which arrived in mid-2020. Now a bourbon follows up: made from a mash of 70% corn, 21% rye, and 9% malted barley and aged for a minimum of two years.

Bold and sharp on the nose, this has a heavy alcohol character that is indicative of youth, but with some time in glass it finds a tempering that allows notes of butterscotch and pastry cream to emerge, alongside a mild citrus element. Rye spice aromas become more evident on the long haul. The palate takes a more straightforward path through the candy shop: nougat, coconut, lemon curd, juicy orange, and finishing on its sweetest notes, hitting marshmallow, marzipan, and orange Creamsicle as the whiskey gets more sugary on its fade-out.

While this whiskey initially hit my palate as blunt and plain, I found it evolving in the glass to showcase more immersive and engaging elements as its boozier notes blew off. While it’s a pushy whiskey uncut and at full proof, it mixes well and keeps its fruity sweetness emblazoned right on its sleeve. Give it time in glass to settle down, and it showcases some its charms — as well as its impressive value.

101 proof.

B+ / $28 / wheelhorsewhiskey.com 

Wheel Horse Bourbon

$28
8.5

Rating

8.5/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

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