Review: Glenglassaugh Revival, Evolution, and Torfa

Review: Glenglassaugh Revival, Evolution, and Torfa

Review: Glenglassaugh Revival, Evolution, and Torfa

Brought back from the dead in 2008, Glenglassaugh is a storied distillery that had been dormant since 1986. Last year the newly-running distillery changed hands and was fell to BenRiach, which is now bottling a number of expressions consisting of  both new make spirit and old stock. None of the old stock offerings — some reaching up to 40 years old — are reviewed here, but this trio of whiskies should give you a sense of the kind of stuff Glenglassaugh is putting out… and a hint of what it will be releasing down the line.

Note, the distillery is Speyside-based, though like some others, it also puts the more general “Highlands” descriptor on the label.

Thoughts follow.

Glenglassaugh Revival Review

The first expression released from Glenglassaugh after being mothballed for more than 20 years, non-peated but matured in a mix of ex-red wine and fresh bourbon casks, then vatted and finished in sherry casks. Heavily malty, with a nose of crude wood fire notes and a wet cement character. The body doesn’t stray too far from its simple underpinnings, with notes of malt extract, cinnamon and raisins, orange peel, and ample oakiness. Lots going on here, but finding the balance among the collection of parts is tough. 92 proof. B / $60 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

Glenglassaugh Evolution Review

Matured completely in ex-Tennessee whiskey barrels and bottled with no age statement. Light maritime notes on the nose, with a distinct pear character beneath the seaweed and coal fires. The body plays up the smoky notes, making this non-peated whisky come across as lightly peated. Notes of over-ripe banana, Bit-O-Honey candies, and green vegetables come together in a wildly unbalanced way on the body… and yet it’s so unique and strange you can’t help but keep sipping on it. Worth a try for novelty value alone, my rating notwithstanding. 100 proof. B / $70

Glenglassaugh Torfa Review

Torfa is “turf” in Gaelic, turf meaning “peat” in this usage. A “richly peated” whisky, it offers no other aging information. Drinks a lot like an Islay. Sweet barbecue smoke dominates the nose and rushes the palate, alongside cherry and citrus notes — the BBQ sauce to this otherwise meaty spirit. The smoky fruit notes are lasting (with hints of bubblegum), but the spirit is otherwise on the simple side. Probably the most fun of the bunch, however. 100 proof. B+ / $65

Glenglassaugh Revival

USD60
8

Rating

8.0/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

3 Comments

  1. MadMex on September 14, 2014 at 7:27 pm

    ….at these prices – Just Say No to NAS (no age statement). Do not encourage them. Enough all ready. Reach elsewhere.

    • Serkan ?ener on December 10, 2023 at 3:45 am

      True, there are a couple of age-stated very good single malts cheaper than these Glenglassaugh bottlings (not very many though), but who cares it is NAS? Torfa, in particular is real good, and definitely too expensive for such a good whisky. At least that’s what I think. Cheers…



  2. Serkan ?ener on December 10, 2023 at 3:47 am

    Sorry, typo! I meant, “…definitely NOT too expensive for such a good whisky…”

Leave a Comment





This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.