Review: Vale do Bomfim 2022 White, 2022 Red, and 2020 Red
Review: Vale do Bomfim 2022 White, 2022 Red, and 2020 Red
Bomfim is part of Portugal’s Dow group — known for its Port wines — which in turn is part of the sprawling Symington family. Unlike its better-known brands, Vale do Bomfim focuses exclusively on table wines — and affordable ones at that. Here’s a look at the latest blends from the operation, both white and red, all made using native Portuguese grapes.
2022 Dow Vale do Bomfim Douro White DOC – 30% Viosinho, 30% Rabigato, 20% Gouveio, and 20% Arinto. Clean, fresh, and loaded with minerals, this pretty blend balances a bright and lemony salinity with notes of honeydew melon and quince. While clean and refreshing, it avoids any overt fruitiness thanks to ample acidity — with just a drop of rice vinegar that keeps things bright. Light almond notes give the finish a bolder, more immersive body. Outstanding value. A- / $15
2022 Dow Vale do Bomfim Douro Red DOC – Like previous vintages, this is comprised of 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Franca, and 10% Tinta Barroca. It is a bold, fruit-forward red leaning into its heritage with rhubarb and prune notes calling to mind its Port siblings. Thankfully, it sidesteps aggressive sweetness, presenting a ripe, compote-like profile with accents of dark chocolate and a finish heavy on licorice rope instead. The structure is firm and quite direct but assists in presenting a challenge to sit with and enjoy over a long evening and a good book. -RT B+ / $18
2020 Dow Vale do Bomfim Douro Red DOC – Same grape blend as the above. Hearty and quite raisiny, this wine clearly hails from the land of Port. It’s fortunately far less candylike than our experience with the wine last time around, its almost pruny core touched with notes of chocolate, anise, and some rhubarb. A little blunt on the finish, but far more approachable and enjoyable this time around. B / $15
Additional reporting by Rob Theakston.
