Review: Wines of Ancient Peaks, Late 2024 Releases
No build-up today: Here’s a trio of wines from our friends (and regular Drinkhacker subjects) at Ancient Peaks in Paso Robles, including a bottle from its One Stone label.
2021 Ancient Peaks Renegade Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch – 83% syrah, 14% petit verdot, 3% malbec. As hearty a wine as the blend would suggest, elements of underripe raspberry and black cherry are undercut by an aggressive beefiness — bold notes of barbecue beef pulled straight off the smoker. There’s plenty of herbaceousness, giving the finish a particularly green, peppery quality. A little overwhelming on its own but could pair well with an appropriately savory meal. B / $28
2023 Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles – A steely, aromatic expression of sauvignon blanc, brisk and highly floral, with ample camphor in the mix. This iconic California expression lands on just this side of ammonia, though there’s a hint of tropicality that emerges in the finish, touching the experience with wisps of mango and pineapple. It’s a straightforward and unchallenging wine, and while this perfumed style of sauvignon blanc is not my usual go-to, I found a few glasses surprisingly enjoyable — if a bit blunt. B+ / $20
2023 One Stone Rose of Pinot Noir Central Coast – Zero surprises here on this fruit-forward, ultra-juicy expression of pinot noir in rose form. A little bit floral, a little bit strawberry, then a dusting of brown sugar to wrap things up. Lightly sweet but still gripped around the edges with some gentle bitterness, it’s a versatile wine that doesn’t blow you away with sweetness but rather shows its many colors, making room for a hint of mineral on the finish. Fresh white flowers endure, complementing a gently bittersweet conclusion. B+ / $20
