Review: 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling Seneca Lake New York

Review: 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling Seneca Lake New York

Review: 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling Seneca Lake New York

Paul Hobbs is a globetrotting, California-based winemaking bigshot, so naturally you’ll find his most expensive and ambitious winery project to date… in New York’s Finger Lakes region.

Hillick & Hobbs is a riesling (and only riesling) producer on the southeastern banks of Seneca Lake, where this grape thrives. We don’t get much New York wine to sample, so I was excited to give it a whirl.

True to form, it’s a bright, classic expression of riesling grown next to the largest of the Finger Lakes: Steely, salty, and laced with minerals, this 12% abv wine showcase notes of white grapes, gooseberry, golden raisin, and Meyer lemon — all quite clean — but laced throughout with the lightest hint of petrol. The lightest touch of sweet Sauternes gives the finish a surprising, subtle, late-game sweetness. Extremely versatile.

A- / $35 / hillickandhobbs.com

2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling Seneca Lake New York

$35
9

Rating

9.0/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

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