Review: 4 Wines from Vouvray, 2024 Releases

Review: 4 Wines from Vouvray, 2024 Releases

Tucked away in France’s Loire Valley, Vouvray is a relatively undersung white wine composed entirely of chenin blanc grapes. While most drinkers have experience with dry table wines from the area, you may not realize that Vouvray also producers sweeter wines, in both the demi-sec and fully sweet styles, the latter akin to Sauternes. (Vouvray also produces sparkling wines, which we’ve covered previously.)

Today we look at recent Vouvray releases — one with more than two decades of age on it — that span the range of sweetness from the region.

2021 Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Le Petit Clos – Aromatic, floral, and very French. Lots of perfume up top leads to zippy notes of peach and apricots, then green apple. Some citrus peel on the finish, then echoes of honey. Initially a bit heavy on the flowery notes for a solo-sipper, it’s a wine that grows on you thinks to a moderate acidity backing all of this up, though it naturally makes for a better companion with a meal. The honeysuckle on the finish lingers with you for ages. B+ / $24

2021 Vignoble Alain Robert Vouvray Les Charmes – Extremely aromatic and highly perfumed, notes of jasmine and honeysuckle dominate against a backdrop of fresh apples, peaches, and creamy lemon curd. The florals create bright highlights that don’t overwhelm in quite the way that the Aubuisieres bottling does, with ample gravity and minerality to keep things grounded. Quaffable on its own but a delight with a meal that has lemons in the recipe. A- / $20

2020 Francois et Julien Pinon Depuis Vouvray Les Trois Argiles – Quite a bit sweeter than expected — formally demi-sec — with a bold peach and honey quality that borders on Sauternes. The florals of Aubuisieres are muted here, letting those stone fruits do the heavy lifting. Peach fades into apricot, which fades into a sort of lemon curd note. Silky and honeyed as the rather sweet finish builds… I like it a lot, but it’s a bit much for dinner. B+ / $34

2003 Domaine la Fontainerie Vouvray Coteau les Brules – An intense dessert wine, now 21 years old. Again the Sauternes analogue is considerable and vibrant, with bold notes of honey and lemon curd in effect, lightly herbal and grassy as it finishes, evoking notes of coconut husk. Increasingly floral as the wine warms up, it eventually shows off a finish of toasted coconut, honey, and more of that bright lemon curd. Delightful stuff. A / $54

2020 Francois et Julien Pinon Depuis Vouvray Les Trois Argiles




Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content creation company.

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