Review: Middle West Spirits Lux & Umbra Gin

Review: Middle West Spirits Lux & Umbra Gin

Review: Middle West Spirits Lux & Umbra Gin

Ohio’s Middle West Spirits makes multiple whiskeys and vodkas but has long had only one gin, Vim & Petal. Now it adds a second gin to the mix: Lux & Umbra, which is made in the London dry style from a corn distillate, with just 6 botanicals: juniper, lemon, coriander, orris root, grains of paradise, and angelica root. That’s a tight bill of materials to work with, so let’s see how it all works out.

Fears that Middle West is working with half a deck here are quickly dashed: This is a powerful and almost pungent gin, made in the true London dry style with an outsized amount of juniper present. Fans of Tanqueray will find the profile here familiar: Pine-laden nose, lightly earthy, with a touch of licorice evident. Bright and peppery, there’s virtually no fruit evident, which I find a bit saddening but many may actively seek out.

The palate really sees the same construction throughout: softer than expected, perhaps, and just a bit sweet, but otherwise dominated by notes of juniper, pepper, and mixed green herbs. Notes of rosemary and thyme add a touch of complexity, before a surprising hint of dark chocolate emerges on the finish. That’s done with a definitively light touch, as herbaceous elements dominate throughout. Those looking for either martini or tonic fodder will find nothing to complain about here — particularly given the price.

84 proof.

A- / $24 / middlewestspirits.com

Middle West Spirits Lux & Umbra Gin

$24
9

Rating

9.0/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

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