Bodegas Granbazán is a winery in Rias Baixas, Spain, though the ornate bottle may make you think you’re drinking something from Germany or Croatia. Anyhoo, this 100% estate-grown albarino is a bright and grassy wine, full of lime leaf, lemongrass, and a hint of spice, providing a welcome complexity one doesn’t often find in this style. Tropical notes of pineapple and coconut emerge on the finish, but it’s an enduring ribbon of saline throughout the really gives the wine a mouth-smacking brightness. Lots of fun, whether you’re ogling the label or not.
A- / $25