This northern Italian white — denoted unusually on the label with its grape varietal, chardonnay — is a biodynamic wine that’s part of Alois Lageder’s “Classical” line. Per the company, “Alois Lageder strives to find the best conditions for each grape variety and collaborates with partners from all over Alto Adige to highlight the diversity of the area and potential of different varietals. In January 2019, the ‘Classical’ line was rebranded with new labels to clearly express the winery’s values and create uniformity amongst all Alois Lageder wines.”
As for this specific bottling, it’s quite sour at first blush, notes of tart lime, gooseberry, and a hint of eucalyptus giving the attack a bracing acidity. Let the wine settle down, warm up, and get some air in the glass and you’ll find notes of white pepper, white flowers, and a fresh green apple note taking over more of the screen time. A tropical touch informs the finish.
This is a wine that grew on me over time — I initially found it off-putting but, by the end of the night, had grown to appreciate more of its charms.
B+ / $16 / aloislageder.eu