Review: Fernet-Vallet and Amargo-Vallet Amari
Turns out they actually make amari in Mexico. These two bitter liqueurs have their origins in 1860s, when Henri Valley left France for Mexico, staying behind to make booze even after the era of French colonialism faded away. The spirits are still made, in Hidalgo, according to the original, 150-year-old recipe.
Fernet-Vallet Aperitivo-Liqueur – Made from aromatic plants, roots and spices including cinnamon, clove, Quassia wood, gentian root, and cardamom. Impossibly dark. Pretty cinnamon/allspice nose. On the palate, extremely bitter — considerably more so than Fernet Branca — and very wood-focused, with dark cloves coming more into the forefront. Over time, the intensity of this amaro grows on you, but those looking for more of a bittersweet experience instead of just a straight-up bitter one might be disappointed. Overall, I was hoping for more complexity than simple, bruising bitterness. 70 proof. B / $25
Amargo-Vallet Bark of Angostura Aperitivo-Liqueur – Even darker, with a purple tint. Made from Angostura bark and macerated cherries, plus spices. The fruit here makes things much more interesting, with a kind of cherry cola character that offsets the wild bitterness driven by the Angostura root. The bitterness builds and builds as the sweetness in the body fades, leaving behind an intense yet enjoyable bitter finish, full of roots, coffee grounds, and the essence of earth. 90 proof. A- / $27
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