Category Archives: Reviews

Re-Review 2012: Herradura Tequila

Posted on May 11, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This is my second full review of the Herradura line and my third of the blanco. My last review was 3 1/2 years ago, so another spin around the block certainly felt warranted.

Why re-review anything? Because, after all, no spirit is made in a vacuum. (Well, OK, some spirits are made in vacuums, but that makes for a less exciting metaphor.) Harvests are variable, staff undergo changes, recipes are altered. For better or worse, here’s how Herradura comes across in 2012.

All expressions are 80 proof.

Herradura Silver - (third sample, original report here) – As blancos go, this silver tastes quite mild to me now. Have I become accustomed to or my tastebuds dulled by over-agaved tequilas? Nice sweetness, with natural vanilla character to offset a mild agave backbone. Big, buttery body. A touch of coffee bean on the back end. Very, very drinkable and a bit dangerous because of it. A- / $33

Herradura Reposado – Aged 11 months. Vanilla is pumped up, but oddly so is the agave. While the blanco has a nice balance to it, the reposado is off. The vanilla comes on too strong, with a butterscotch character that doesn’t play as well with the agave as it should. B / $34

Herradura Anejo – 25-plus months in oak. And somehow the anejo pulls it all back together. In balance, vanilla, caramel, chocolate, big ripe banana character, and a little agave at the back. Silky and rich, a banana cream pie from south of the border. A- / $43

herradura.com

herradura Re Review 2012: Herradura Tequila

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Posted in Rated A-, Rated B, Reviews, Tequila

Review: Dimmi Liquore di Milano

Posted on May 10, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

The Italian answer to gin and absinthe, Dimmi is an old (1930s) product now making a resurgence. Distilled in the Lombardy region in Italy’s north, Dimmi is distilled from organic wheat (like a vodka) and infused with licorice, orange peel, rhubarb, ginseng, and vanilla. Following this infusion, peach and apricot blossoms are infused into the mix, and Nebbiolo-based grappa is added to top it all off along with a touch of organic beet sugar, for sweetness.

Very pale yellow in color, Dimmi is a pretty enticing liqueur that, based on the above description, tastes nothing like you are probably expecting. The nose hints at lemon, but on the tongue it comes across with grapefruit character backed up with vanilla custard. This sounds like an odd combination, but imagine candied fruit garnishing a creme brulee and you’re in the ball park. (Strega is also a distant, yellower cousin.) But still, there is plenty of bitterness and sourness to balance out the sweetness here, and more than enough complexity to keep you sipping if you’re drinking it neat.

Lots of cocktail possibilities. Consider it in lieu of vermouth in your favorite drink if you’re looking for a way to get started, experimentally speaking.

70 proof.

A- / $40 / domaineselect.com

dimmi liquore di milano Review: Dimmi Liquore di Milano

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Posted in Brandy, Grappa, Liqueurs, Rated A-, Reviews

Review: Dutch’s Spirits Sugar Wash Moonshine and Peach Brandy

Posted on May 9, 2012 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

Built atop the underground distilling and bootlegging operation of the gangster Dutch Schultz (and on family land now owned by co-founder Alex Adams), Dutch’s Spirits is a new New York-based distillery that’s attacking the spirits industry with some unexpected products — no gin or whiskey here, be warned!

We tasted Dutch’s two inaugural spirits. Thoughts on each follow.

Dutch’s Spirits Sugar Wash Moonshine – This white spirit is a tribute to Schultz’s “own hooch,” a white spirit distilled from 100% Demerara sugar in copper pot stills. I wasn’t entirely sure how to classify this oddity, since it’s technically a rum (and a rhum agricole or cachaca at that) but isn’t branded as such. It is closest in style to a Puerto Rico-style white rum, with smoothed-over flavors of vanilla and a touch of chocolate to it. There’s none, however, of those gasoline flavors or raw alcohol notes you get with most cachaca and none of the burning heat of the typical corn-based moonshine. Moderate body with a lightly floral and herbal finish. The name may be a bit baffling, but the results are impressive if you’re a rum fan and are looking for something unique. A / $28

Dutch’s Spirits Peach Brandy – Americans are simply not drinking enough peach brandy. It’s a fact. I’m not sure that Dutch’s version of it is going to change that. While the nose offers lots of fresh fruit flavors — more apricot and apple than peach — the body is not nearly sweet enough to carry the day. Deeply bitter, the fruit notes are washed under the base alcohol’s astringency, though you can tell there are some deep and lush fruit flavors and brown sugar-sweetness just dying to get out. Much better as a cocktail flavoring agent (in small quantities) than on its own. C / $42

dutchsspirits.com

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Posted in Brandy, Rated A, Rated C, Reviews, Rum, Whiskey, White Whiskey

Review: Faretti Biscotti Famosi Liqueur

Posted on May 8, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

You can take the Italians away from their amaro but you just can’t get the amaro out of the Italians.

Faretti is one of those crazy niche ideas: a liqueur intended to taste like biscotti cookies. But stick your nose in a freshly-poured glass of the stuff and you’ll swear up and down you’re getting into something bitter. The nose offers root beer and licorice character, and not in a cursory way. It’s so intense that you’re shocked when you actually sip the liqueur, revealing an appropriately sweet liquid intended for consumption with (or as) dessert.

On the tongue it’s got almonds, sugar cookie dough, and a surprising amount of citrus. The lattermost flavor makes it a bit unlike any biscotti I’ve ever had, but it does help to give this spirit more complexity than it might otherwise have — and serves to make it a decently compelling alternative to amaretto, particularly if you’re into the bitter edge on the nose.

B / $20 / chathamimports.com

faretti biscotti liqueur Review: Faretti Biscotti Famosi Liqueur

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Posted in Liqueurs, Rated B, Reviews

Review: Blackwell Jamaican Rum

Posted on May 7, 2012 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

Chris Blackwell made music (he founded Island Records in 1959 and exposed the world to reggae). Now he makes rum. Dark, dark rum, hailing from Jamaica.

Distilled at Appleton Estate, this is rum the color of cola, deep and dark. (Aging isn’t disclosed.) On the nose there’s that telltale scent of molasses, fresh and sugary, and perhaps some pineapple. On the palate, the rum kicks in with lots of smooth syrupy character, plus a big chewy coconut character. The finish is less sweet than you would expect, turning to charcoal embers and coconut husks, leaving you with a denouement that is a touch chalky, and leaving you with notes that are a bit bittersweet.

Quite engaging, and certainly worthwhile if you aren’t interested in a pure sugar bomb.

80 proof.

A- / $30 / blackwellrum.com

blackwell rum Review: Blackwell Jamaican Rum

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Rum

Review: 2009 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Posted on May 6, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Another new release from our friends at Pine Ridge, the 2009 release of the winery’s flagship Cabernet.

This expression is a very jammy, fruit-forward wine, in keeping with the house style and along the lines of 2008 release. Big blueberry notes like this are a touch out of place in a Napa Cab, but the hints of leather, licorice, and tobacco on the finish remind you at least of a sense of place. This is a more agreeable wine than last year’s model, but it is still a wine in search of its balance.

B / $43 / pineridgewinery.com

pine ridge cabernet sauvignon 2009 Review: 2009 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Wine

Review: 2007 Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Posted on May 5, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Certified organic in 1998, the 90 hectares of Chateau La Nerthe are part of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region’s oldest estates. This 2007 vintage is composed of 48% Grenache, 29% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre, and 1% Cinsault.

Deep and rich currant aromas on the nose hint at a really big wine, but it’s surprisingly lively on the tongue, lighter than you’d think. Spices dominate the palate, typical for Rhone blends, underpinned by a modest earthy character. The moderate-bodied wine ends with a bit of pepper and leather, a touch drying but overall quite a pleasant experience.

A- / $59 / chateaulanerthe.fr

Chateau La Nerthe rouge NV bottle Review: 2007 Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac VSOP and XO

Posted on May 4, 2012 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Montesquiou… man, that is a lot of vowels.

It is also the producer of a lot of Armagnacs. Formerly part of the Pernod family, it’s now being imported by ImpEx, repackaged, and expanding into broader U.S. distribution. We tasted both the VSOP and XO bottlings. Both are 80 proof and made from eaux de vie from Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Colombard, and Baco. Thoughts follow.

Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac VSOP – Very nutty, with aromas of nougat, honey, and fresh cut grass. On the palate, flavors of chocolate malt balls, sweet apple and citrus, vanilla, caramel, and a moderate but well-balanced finish. A classic brandy, richer than young Cognacs and arguably more enjoyable. A- / $50

Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac XO Imperial – Immediately more intense on the nose, and huge in the body, this tastes like a classic old Cognac. Really rich with smoothed fruit, marzipan, milk chocolate, more nuts, and a fantastic balance of sweet and smoldering. Exceptionally drinkable, though the price might be a bit hard for some to swallow. A / $130

impexbev.com

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Posted in Armagnac, Brandy, Rated A, Rated A-, Reviews

Review: 2009 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Posted on May 3, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Chateau Montelena is a winery that probably needs no introduction to most wine drinkers, but in case you’re a newb, it’s the winery made the Chardonnay that beat out all of Burgundy in the famed Paris Tasting of 1976.

Today, Montelena is probably better known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, and we recently snagged the 2009 vintage for review.

It’s a surprisingly wonderful wine, ready to drink now and far from overcooked. (At just 13.8% alcohol, it’s practically a lightweight compared to its local competition and balanced perhaps by 13% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc.) The nose: Ripe and fragrant, with a modest touch of leather. On the palate: Absolutely fresh fruit, strawberries, raspberries, and plums, with just a touch of currant character. What tannin is here is well integrated now, leaving you with just a bit of mouth puckering tartness on the finish. It’s welcome after such a fruit-forward, but far from sweet, Cabernet — and that creates a wine with surprisingly good balance.

I’d written off Montelena years ago, but here’s the proof that this legendary winery is still making near-classic wines.

A- / $50 / montelena.com

chateau montelena cabernet sauvignon Review: 2009 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Tasting Report: Wines of the Santa Rita Hills 2012

Posted on May 2, 2012 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Santa Rita Hills, located in Santa Barbara County and immortalized by the movie Sideways, is perhaps the preeminent location for Pinot Noir production in all of California. Tasting 30 or so of these Pinots together is tough work: I could drink almost any of them with dinner, and grading them competitively almost feels unfair. That said, I found a number of real winners at this year’s “road trip” to San Francisco, with a dozen or so producers pouring their new releases alongside some older vintages (and not just Pinot). Of special note, the delicate Make-peace bottling from Cold Heaven Cellars and Dragonette’s always-winning wines. These notes are, as always, really rough guidelines and not authoritative reviews… and here they are.

Tasting Report: Santa Rita Hills Winegrowers Alliance Road Trip 2012

2009 Alma Rosa Pinot Noir Mt. Eden Clone El Jabali Vineyard / C+ /

2008 Alma Rosa Pinot Noir / B /

2007 Ampelos Pinot Noir Prho / B / massive herbs, mint

2010 Ampelos Pinot Noir / B / easy

2008 Ampelos Pinot Noir Lambda / B / menthol notes are huge, overwhelming

2008 Ampelos Syrah Gamma / B+ / massive, smoky

2009 Cargasacchi Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard / B+ /

2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Estate / A- / massive

2009 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Estate / B+ / more tart

2007 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Estate / A- / elegant, easy

2006 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Estate / B+ / has that touch of maturity

2010 Cold Heaven Cellars Viognier Au Bon Climat Vineyard / B+ /

2010 Cold Heaven Cellars Viognier Sanford and Benedict Vineyard / A- / bigger, racier

2010 Cold Heaven Cellars Pinot Noir Nevertell / A- / big and spicy

2010 Cold Heaven Cellars Pinot Noir Make-peace / A / delicate

2010 Cold Heaven Cellars Pinot Noir Queenscup / B+ / chunky

2009 Dierberg Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard / B- / overcooked

2010 Dragonette Pinot Noir / A- / a touch concentrated

2010 Dragonette Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard / A- / fruit and spice

2008 Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir “Seven Twenty Eight” Fiddlestix Vineyard / A- / big, grassy

2007 Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir “Lollapalooza” Fiddlestix Vineyard / B+ /

2009 Flying Goat YNOT Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County / B+ / very easy

2009 Flying Goat Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa / B / super jammy, big

2008 Flying Goat Pinot Noir Clone 2A Rio Vista Vineyard / A- / better balance, chewy

2008 Flying Goat Pinot Noir Solomon Hills Vineyard / B+ / meaty notes

2009 Foley Family Pinot Noir / B+ / thick body

2009 Foley Family Lincourt Pinot Noir, Lindsay’s Vineyard / B+ / tobacco notes

2010 Gypsy Canyon Winery Pinot Noir Trois, Gypsy Canyon Vineyard / B / somewhat thin body, very fruity

2008 Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Pinot Noir St. Rita’s Earth / A- / great herbal composition

2007 Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard / B+ / slight bitter edge

2007 Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Pinot Noir Perfect Set, Fiddlestix Vineyard / A- / lovely balance

2009 Huber Pinot Noir Huber Estate / A- / great body, spice, balance

2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard Pinot Noir Kessler-Haak Vineyard / B / meaty notes

2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard Pinot Noir Clone 2A Kessler-Haak Vineyard / B- /

2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard Syrah Turner Vineyard / B+ /

2009 Lafond Vineyards Pinot Noir / B / tart, off balance

2009 Lafond Vineyards Syrah / B+ / sweeter style

2009 Longoria Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard / C+ / medicinal notes

2010 Longoria Pinot Noir Lovely Rita / B- /

2009 Pali Wine Company Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard / B / tart, off balance

2010 Pali Wine Company Pinot Noir Huntington Santa Barbara County / B / thin

2010 Siduri Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard / B+ / more smoky, earth

2010 Siduri Pinot Noir / B+ /

2009 Zotovich Cellars Pinot Noir Zotovich Estate / B- / very tart

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