Category Archives: Reviews

Review: Brenne French Single Malt Whiskey Barrel 261

Posted on May 4, 2013 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

We so rarely get to check out the whiskeys of France that when one arrives it’s always greeted with a bit of mystery and awe.

Even among French whiskeys, Brenne is something completely unique. It starts as single malt, with barley harvested on the distillery’s own farm in the Cognac region of France. It is double distilled in alembic stills, then aged first in new French limousin oak, before being finished in ex-Cognac barrels. No age statement, but the company says the typical bottle is 7 years old — 5 years in new oak, 2 in the Cognac barrels.

Brenne’s releases are all single-barrel releases, and while I have just sampled one — barrel 261 — they are said to vary widely from one barrel to the next (in part owing to the variations amongst the Cognac finishing casks).

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Posted in French Whiskey, Rated B, Reviews, Whiskey

Review: 2008 D’Alessandro Azienda Agricola “ns08″ Nero d’Avola/Syrah

Posted on May 3, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This monster of a wine hails from Sicily and is made with its traditional grape, Nero d’Avola (65%), blended with Syrah (35%). Results are intense. The nose is biting and quite raisiny, hinting at Port-like characteristics. On the body, tons of deep fruit notes, leather, tobacco, and a long, tannic finish. A good match with a rich meal, but a little daunting on its own.

B / $30 / dalmin.it

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Wine

Review: 2011 Matchbook Giguiere Musque Chardonnay Dunnigan Hills

Posted on May 3, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

The giant “Musque” on the label of this wine may throw you at first, but the body will do you one worse. A 100% unoaked Chardonnay made entirely from the Musque Clone No. 809, this is an aromatic and perfumy wine loaded with muscat-like flavors (hence the name of the clone). Big orange, honey, wildflower, and some nutty notes pervade the nose. The body backs those characteristics up and is quite sweet, nothing like the buttery, applesaucy Chardonnays you’re likely accustomed to. This is a vibrant fruit bomb that is so unusual it will wholly challenge your expectations of what Chardonnay can be. That, of course, is both a good thing and a bad.

B / $16 / crewwines.com

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Wine

Tagged drinkwire

Review: OM Organic Mixology Wild Cranberry & Blood Orange Cocktail

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Pre-mixed cocktails aren’t often a high-end affair, but Organic Mixology is trying to change that with a new line of ready-to-drink cocktails, courtesy of Natalie Bovis, “The Liquid Muse.”

Made with certified organic ingredients, no artificial flavors/colors/preservatives, lightweight glass bottles, and packaged in 75% post-consumer recycled cases (whew!), this is high-end, eco-friendly cocktailery, complete with a Sanskrit “Om” trinket attached to the bottle’s neck.

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Posted in Mixers, Rated B, Reviews

Tagged drinkwire

Review: Newcastle Bombshell

Posted on May 1, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Curious: A blonde ale from Newcastle.

The latest in Newcastle’s limited edition beer series will be available from now through July 2013. Naturally, it’s Newcastle’s most “summery” brew, though it’s still got a big mouthfeel and lots of heft to it.

Nicely grainy, almost biscuity with distinct toast notes, this very light pale ale doesn’t stray far from the basics. Hops are muted, leaving both bitterness and sweetness as relative afterthoughts. Really just a hint of dessert on the back-end, a somewhat cookie-like character that adds just a touch of sugar to an otherwise sedate brew. Altogether it’s fine and moderately refreshing (and quite low in alcohol, which is good for summertime drinking), though hardly complex.

Also note the bikini-clad gal on the label, an addition, per Newcastle, intended “to sell more beer.”

4.4% abv.

B / $8 per six-pack / newcastlebrown.com

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Posted in Beer, Rated B, Reviews

Tasting Report: Wines of Howell Mountain 2013

Posted on May 1, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This tasting of Cabernet-centric Howell Mountain wines is always a highlight of the wine event season, and this rundown of a few dozen wineries in the region was no disappointment. We’ve covered the event for several years now, and this year’s tasting of primarily 2009 and 2010 Cabs, plus a smattering of library wines, offered lots to like.

Some favorites: Perennial faves Pina and O’Shaugnessy brought their A-games, while Atlas Peak, Bravante, and Outpost all dazzled as well, too. La Jota’s mountain Merlot was also worth a good look.

A special note for Cornerstone’s 1999 Cabernet. I tried this wine last year and found it a bit over-aged, but the bottle I sampled at this event was drinking quite nicely. Just goes to show how bottle variability becomes a bigger and bigger issue as the years wind on….

Thoughts on all wines tasted follow.

Tasting Report: Wines of Howell Mountain 2013

2009 Arkenstone Vineyards Obsidian / $120 / B+ / chewy, needs time
2010 Arkenstone Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Howell Mountain / $55 / B+ / a bit tougher
2007 Atlas Peak Howell Mountain Cabernet / $60 / B+ / restrained, more fruit
2004 Atlas Peak Howell Mountain Cabernet / $75 / A / rich cocoa notes, drinking beautifully
2008 Blue Hall Vineyard Camiana Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B+ / bold body, dark plums
2007 Bravante Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Howell Mountain / $65 / A / very chocolaty, some blueberry, great
2008 Bravante Merlot Estate Howell Mountain / $60 / B / milder, a little earth
2007 Bravante TRIO Napa Valley / $50 / B / very mild, simple (60% merlot, 35% cab, 5% cab franc)
2006 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Merlot / $75 / B / some menthol, tight
2006 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $85 / B- / very chewy, tannic
2005 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Cimarossa Vineyard / $85 / B / similar, quite big
2009 CADE Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain / $80 / B / very fruity, over-ripe
2009 Cakebread Dancing Bear Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $110 / A- / enormous, chewy chocolate
2010 Charles Krug Howell Mountain Cold Springs Vineyard Single Vineyard Red Blend / $125 / B / strange notes of swimming pool and sawdust (81% CS, 18% PV, 1% Malbec)
2009 Cimarossa Ravi Di Cimarossa Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / A- / lush fruit, black pepper
2009 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A- / very lively, chocolate, blueberry, tart finish
1999 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $150 / A- / holding up well, smooth tannin, some wood, light finish
2010 Cresta Velia Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / B+ / juicy, quite sweet
2009 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet / $90 / B / big and burly
2009 Haber Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $95 / A- / great body, fruit meets wood
2010 Haber Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $120 / B / still quite tight, big wood notes
2008 Howell at the Moon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $85 / B- / Old World style; a bit thin
2010 Howell Mountain Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B+ / surprisingly sweet, especially for a 2010
2009 John Robert Eppler Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / B+ / modest, straightforward
2005 La Jota Howell Mountain Merlot / $70 / A / a big surprise; huge but balanced; lots of fruit and cocoa
2004 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $NA / B+ / lots going on, very tannic, giant
2006 Neal Family Vineyards Howell Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B / barnyard notes, big body, chewy
2008 Notre Vin Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $150 / B+ / smooth, amlost simple, easy fruit character
2009 O’Shaugnessy Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A / lovely, great balance with supple fruit
2011 Outpost Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / A / lush and balanced; lovely and nearly perfect, even for a pre-release wine
2009 Pina Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Buckeye Vineyard / $85 / A / drinking perfectly; black pepper, fruit, long finish
2010 Pine Ridge Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $90 / B+ / drinking well, lots of wood, brambly, blackberries
2009 Press Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $50 / B / first vintage of 50 cases; young, some sweetness, like Jolly Ranchers
2008 Red Cap Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / A- / pretty, nice fruit, very fresh
2009 Red Cap Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / A- / similar, slightly bigger body
2009 Retro Cellars Retro Cellars Old Vine Howell Mountain Petite Sirah / $42 / B- / clunky, a bit pruny
2009 Roberts + Rogers Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $60 / B / huge fruit notes; long finish
2007 Sbragia Rancho del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / B+ / complicated, a little green; candylike finish
2009 Sbragia Cimarossa Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A- / better balance; lively
2007 SPENCE Howell Mountain 100% Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / A- / lovely body; lush with an easy finish
2009 SPENCE Howell Mountain 100% Cabernet Sauvignon / $72 / B+ / tighter, more wood influence
2008 Summit Lake Emily Kestrel Howell Mountain Cabernet / $60 / A- / light jam notes; good body

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: Captive Spirits Big Gin

Posted on April 30, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Seattle-based Captive Spirits makes one product and one product alone: gin. Big Gin, actually.

Crafted in the London Dry style 100 gallons at a time and is imbued with nine botanicals: juniper, coriander, orange peel, grains of paradise, angelica, cassia, cardamon, orris root, and Tasmanian pepper berry. Altogether it’s a fairly traditional botanical bill, with only a couple of twists in store.

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Posted in Gin, Rated B+, Reviews

Tagged drinkwire

Review: Wines of Gary Farrell, 2010 Vintages

Posted on April 29, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Gary Farrell is based on Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, but it makes wines with fruit from all over California. Russian River, however, remains the focus. The 2010 bottlings are now hitting the market. We tasted through a solid sampling of five of them. Thoughts follow.

2010 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Westside Farms – A crisp but modestly oaked California Chardonnay, made in the classic style with a buttery and nutty body, but balanced with a decent amount of acid on the back end. Some lemon notes add character, even if the depth is about average. B+ /$38

2010 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Carneros Ramal Vineyard – Very light, easy (not bright) cherry notes. Fresh, lots of acid, short and crisp finish. Some light black tea notes come along on the outro. A- / $50

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Posted in Rated A-, Rated B, Rated B+, Reviews, Wine

Tasting Report: 2013 Berkeley Wine Festival

Posted on April 28, 2013 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Now in its fourth year, the Berkeley Wine Festival features a series of weekly dinners hosted by California winemakers. The dinners and the big kickoff takes place at Berkeley’s iconic Claremont Hotel, which I attended. Packed with attendees, the opening night featured tastings of over 180 wines, plus a smattering of foodstuffs prepared by Claremont chefs. With proceeds benefitting the Alameda County Food Bank, it’s not just a good time to mingle with friends, drink some wine, and watch the sunset from perhaps the best vantage point in the San Francisco Bay Area… it’s also doing something good. Thoughts on the wines I tried — nothing you probably haven’t seen me write about before — follow.

Tasting Report: 2013 Berkeley Wine Festival

2011 Amapola Creek Chardonnay Russian River Valley Jos. Belli Vineyards / B+ / see blog
2010 Clos du Val Merlot Napa Valley / B /
2010 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / B- /
2011 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Sonoma Coast / A- / lively, solid lemon notes
2011 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A- /
2010 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir Carneros / B+ /
2010 Barnett Vineyards Chardonnay Savoy / B+ / good body, a bit herbal\
2010 Palmaz Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley / B /
2012 Tres Sabores Sauvignon Blanc / B / huge acid, herbal
2010 Tres Sabores Zinfandel / B+ / supple, easygoing
2009 Tres Sabores Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford / B+ / big, dry-farmed 100% cab; Bordeaux style
2011 Hahn Family Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands / B / rustic, earthy
2010 Capture Chardonnay Ma Vie Carol Sonoma County / A- / huge and rich, lots of nutty nots, light wood
2011 Capture Sauvignon Blanc / A / massive depth, lush, lemons and figs
2011 Capture Dark Rose / A- / rose of Cabernet Sauvignon, very fruity nose, chocolate and caramel
2011 ZD Winery Chardonnay / A- / lots of apple fruit
2011 Acacia Pinot Noir Carneros / B / simple
2011 J Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River / B+ / very earthy, big finish
2008 Rosenblum Zinfancel Rockpile Road / B / dense, hefty
2011 Hook & Ladder Pinot Noir Russian River / B+ / easy, mild

Posted in Reviews, Wine

Tagged drinkwire

Review: Wines of Portugal’s Alentejo Region

Posted on April 27, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

The Portuguese don’t sit around sipping Vintage Port all day. For everyday drinking, they turn to some simple and very affordable wines. Increasingly, these wines have been coming to the U.S., letting us discover new grapes, like Antao Vaz, and new regions, like Alentejo, where these three wines hail from.

Alentejo covers most of the southern half of the country and encompasses a wide range of varietals and styles. Thoughts follow.

2010 Alente Vinho Branco Antao Vaz/Arinto DOC Alentejo – A white blend of Antao Vaz (60%) and Arinto (40%) grapes, the former being the most commonly grown white grape in the Alentejo region. Lots of herbal notes on the front of this wine, with a big body featuring restrained apple notes coming along behind. The finish is mildly bitter and lasting. Altogether it’s an interesting change from the usual fare, but an overall sense of balance just isn’t here. B- / $12

2009 Mariana Alentejo - A blend of 40% Aragonez, 30% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Trincadeira, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Rocky. Intensely herbal and funky earth on the nose. Not nearly that powerful on the body, which is super tart and almost jammy on the back end, though that creeping, decaying herb character comes along after a short while. Not a winner. D / $14

2009 Vinha do Mouro Tinto Estremoz Alentejo – A marginal improvement. Big barnyard notes, with a raisiny core. Some coffee notes, particularly on the finish. Ends up somewhat bittersweet. C- / $15

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Posted in Rated B-, Rated C-, Rated D/F, Reviews, Wine

Review: 2007 Banfi Brunello and 2009 Sartori Amarone

Posted on April 27, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

2007 marks the first year that Banfi’s new Horizon Winery got up and running, featuring new a fermenting system that uses oak cores with stainless steel caps to produce wine. The newly released Brunello, the first wine to come out of this winery, is reviewed below, along with a hot new Amarone from Sartori, one of Banfi’s labels. Thoughts follow.

2007 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino – Brick red in color, this Brunello looks very old (it’s not) and almost oxidized (it shouldn’t be) after pouring. Initially a bit hoary and funky, things settle down with exposure to air. In the end we get lots of wood, a dense and tannic core, and notes of balsamic, licorice, and currants. Not altogether balanced. B- / $55 castellobanfi.com

2009 Sartori Amarone della Valpolicella – A classically structured Amarone, raisiny but full of fruit up front, with notes of tobacco and touched with strawberry jam. Tart and fresh (particularly on the finish), it’s not as heavy-duty as many Amarones, which makes it more easygoing when sipping on its own. B+ / $40 banfivintners.com

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Posted in Rated B+, Rated B-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon

Posted on April 26, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Elijah Craig is a Bourbon brand on the rise, and its latest release is another knockout, this time bottled at cask strength.

A whopping 12 years old (the age statement is in the text on the back label of the bottle), Elijah Craig Barrel Proof is an amazing whiskey that should (and will) be sought after by those who like their Bourbons big, old, and hot. (George T. Stagg fans take note.)

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A-, Reviews, Whiskey

Review: 2010 Ghost Pines Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted on April 26, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Ghost Pines is a label produced by Louis Martini, which is itself a subsidiary of the Gallo empire. These two new releases are single-varietal wines, blended from grapes harvested from both Sonoma and Napa counties. Thoughts follow.

2010 Ghost Pines Merlot – Made from 29% Napa County and 71% Sonoma County grapes. An easy-drinking Merlot, it offers a moderate to light body, pleasant with black cherry notes, and a surprisingly vibrant (and lightly sweet) chocolate finish. Simple, maybe overly so. B+ / $20

2010 Ghost Pines Cabernet Sauvignon – Made from 70% Napa County and 30% Sonoma County fruit, this straightforward Cabernet doesn’t take a lot of chances, but at $23 a bottle it doesn’t really need to. Light menthol notes play with a somewhat woody core that offers ample plum and raspberry character to balance it out. Modest finish, some tannin there too. Fades out fast. B / $23

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Posted in Rated B, Rated B+, Reviews, Wine

Review: Schramm Organic Gin

Posted on April 25, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Yes Virginia, they make gin in Canada. This unique gin comes from Pemberton Distillery in British Columbia, where a smattering of products are produced. None seems more highly lauded than Schramm Organic Gin, an organic dry gin made from distilled potato base and infused with a mere eight (organic) botanicals: juniper, coriander, orange peel, rosemary, angelica root, Ceylon cinnamon, rosehips, and hops.

A more unique infusion bill you’re unlikely to find, but when poured, the immediate nose is none of these but rather — inexplicably — cucumber. A deeper exploration into the aroma reveals that it is the last two elements on that list — rosehips and hops — that strangely meld into this unique cucumber character. Behind it there’s a sort of smoky/earthy character that is likely driven by the angelica root.

On the body, this is a gin that’s overflowing with flavor. That cucumber character dominates here, too, but it takes on a deeper and more smoldering character than you get on the nose. Very much like a tree bark (cinnamon-driven, maybe) character and hints of the forest floor. Not so much juniper berries, but definitely limbs of juniper trees scattered about under the canopy shadows. The finish offers a respite from this depth, with notes of lemongrass and some mint. All of which is curious because none of those ingredients are actually in this gin.

Reviewed: Batch #09 (now sold out), bottle #165. Distilled Dec 2012. 88 proof.

A- / $55 / pembertondistillery.ca

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Posted in Gin, Rated A-, Reviews

Review: New Proseccos from Bellenda and Carpene Malvolti

Posted on April 24, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

How about some bubbles? Here are two delightful new Proseccos to try out.

2011 Bellenda Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene – Slightly musty on the nose, this Prosecco makes up for that with a tart and fruity body that packs in plenty of flavor. Notes of peaches and light strawberry notes mingle with the simpler apple and citrus character. Pleasant, but the finish brings back a touch of that musty character that mars an otherwise vibrant wine. B+ / $16

NV Carpene Malvolti Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry DOCG (pictured) – Fizzier than most Proseccos, but full of fruit character. Big apple notes at the forefront, with a touch of figs and a hint of caramel. Smooth and rich, evening out as the bubbles start to settle down. Quite good. A- / $15

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Posted in Rated A-, Rated B+, Reviews, Wine

Review: White Wines of Stony Hill, 2013 Releases

Posted on April 24, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Stony Hill Vineyard is located in Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain AVA, where it specializes in white wines, particularly its award-winning Chardonnay. We sampled three of its latest releases for the 2013 drinking season. Thoughts follow.

2010 Stony Hill Chardonnay Napa Valley – Lemon, honeysuckle, and intriguing woody notes on the nose lead to a complex body, moderate in mouthfeel with light acidity. Here you find lots of orange and lemon notes, some honey — an almost Sauternes hint — midway through the finish. Don’t worry, it’s not a sugar bomb: The conclusion is dry and inviting, the honey character building on the nose as it warms in the glass. A real knockout. A / $42

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Posted in Rated A, Rated B, Rated B-, Reviews, Wine

Wine & Beer Gadget Roundup

Posted on April 23, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Lately we’ve received a whole bunch of “stocking stuffer” sized gadgets suitable for wine and beer fanatics. Rather than review them individually, we’re rounding them up here in a mega-gizmo post. Thoughts follow.

Hermetus Bottle Opener & Resealer – Sometimes you don’t want to drink that entire half-liter of beer, but if you’ve pried off the crown cap, what do you do next? The Hermetus is several gadgets in one, but the most noteworthy is that it reseals beer bottles. Just slide the lip of the bottle through the aluminum groove as far as you can: The groove pushes it against a rubber pad and seals it tight. Turn it upside down, shake it up, no worries — the beer won’t come out. It works on both U.S. and Euro bottles, and it includes a standard opener as well as a claw-like opener designed to help with stubborn twist-offs, too. Instructions engraved on the reverse remind you of all of this in case you’ve had too much. A / $9 kaufmann-mercantile.com

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Posted in Barware, Rated A, Rated B+, Rated B-, Rated C+, Reviews

Review: The Pink Pigeon Original Rum

Posted on April 22, 2013 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Rum is a spirit imbued with exoticism. It comes from places in tour guides like Barbados. Panama. Martinique.

Pink Pigeon puts all of that to shame. It is born in Mauritius, which I guarantee you will never find on a map. It’s here: A speck of an island over 1000 miles off the southeast coast of Africa — out there beyond Madagascar.

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Posted in Flavored Rum, Rated B+, Reviews, Rum

Review: House Spirits Westward Oregon Straight Malt Whiskey

Posted on April 21, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

House Spirits, the makers of Aviation Gin, has expanded into the whiskey world, and they aren’t messing around. Westward is a very small-batch 100% single malt whiskey made from locally sourced (Pacific Northwest) barley. Westward Oregon Straight Malt is fermented with Scottish and American ale yeasts, then double pot distilled. The spirit is aged in full-size, new American oak barrels for two years.

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Posted in Rated A, Reviews, Whiskey

Review: Shock Top’s (Unbuyable) Campfire Wheat Beer

Posted on April 20, 2013 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

There’s no picture to this review because this beer is not for sale. You can try it — available on tap only — in extremely limited quantities at beer festivals around the country this year. Want to find this stuff? Try the San Francisco International Beer Festival on April 27, or the American Beer Classic in Chicago on May 11, 2013. Check Shock Top’s Facebook page for more info — and information on two more festival-only exclusive beers coming out later this year.

Campfire Wheat is perhaps the most outrageous beer I’ve ever encountered. An unfiltered ale, it is brewed with graham wheat, chocolate malts, and marshmallow flavor. It is then aged over cocoa nibs before being sealed into kegs. What’s this all mean? Well, if the ingredient list doesn’t tip you off, think harder: It’s s’mores. S’mores beer. S’mores, turned into a beer.

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Posted in Beer, Rated D/F, Reviews