Perfect Pairings: Sushi and Sauvignon Blanc

Surely you know the major food and drink pairings. Red wine goes with meat. White goes with fish. White zinfandel goes with a hangover. There is some truth to these generalizations, but only some. There are many exceptions as well. And, at the end of the day, it is important to remember that the most important rule is to drink what you like. The discriminating drinker takes the time to reflect upon what one pours and enjoy it fully. That means that if you take pleasure in drinking a glass of Pinot Grigio with your rare steak, enjoy!

That said, there are instances in which one particular style of wine, beer, or whiskey accompanies a particular food so well that we want to share the news with friends. We want to have them over so that they can experience that perfect paring in which food makes a beverage shine and vice versa. In our “Perfect Pairings” posts, of which this is the first, we will share the food and beverage marriages that we think are made in heaven.

Perhaps my single favorite pairing, and certainly the one I enjoy most often, is sushi and Sauvignon Blanc wine. Sushi, whether nigiri (pieces) or maki (rolls), typically includes a variety of fish coupled with rice seasoned with vinegar and soy sauce. The rice and fish present subtle flavors that can be overwhelmed by many wines. Light white wines have the best chance of pairing with it, and when I drink Sauvignon Blanc, particularly varieties from New Zealand, magic happens.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc typically offers bright citrus, grapefruit, passion fruit, and grassy notes. The wine’s high acidity works almost like the ginger that accompanies sushi. Ginger is intended to be eaten between bites of sushi to cleanse the palate so that you can distinguish the nuances of your next piece. Additionally, the wine’s acidity wipes away the salty flavor of soy sauce. Sauvignon Blanc perfectly accompanies the fresh flavors of sushi and heightens the experience of each new bite. It helps that fine bottles of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can be found for under $10. Coupled with negihama (yellowtail and scallion maki), that’s the cost of dining happiness.

Review: Wines of Wakefield

Wakefield Winery is actually Taylors Winery, but they are not permitted to use the family name in much of the Northern Hemisphere due to trademark restrictions. Located in the Clare Valley of South Australia, the winery was opened in 1969 by Bill Taylor Sr. and his sons Bill Jr. and John, and the family still runs the winery today. Their first major wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon which drew immediate praise, and they offer a broad range of varieties and tiers today. Below please find reviews of a range of their offerings drawn from across the winery’s portfolio.

2016 Wakefield St. Andrews Riesling – In the past, I have described wines as “tart” and having “bracing acidity,” but I don’t think I fully appreciated the terms until trying this Riesling. It is almost too much. But when the wine is coupled with food (I tried it with spicy Indian food), it comes alive. The wine presents lemon and subtle apple on the nose. The lemon notes continue on the palate along with sharp acidity, fine minerality, and a touch of peach. The wine is bright and citrusy, but absolutely dry. St. Andrews Riesling is enjoyable now but still very tight. I wonder how much better it will get with a few years of aging. B+ / $40

2016 Wakefield Promised Land Unwooded Chardonnay – On the nose, this wine presents aromas of apple and a light touch of lemon. The palate follows suit, but a touch of bitterness appears. With food, the bitterness disappears as the wine’s fine acidity steps forward. This wine is best enjoyed with food, and it would pair nicely with a wide range of possibilities. For me, a little cheese and crackers worked perfectly. B / $13

2015 Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz – South Australia is renowned for Shiraz, and Wakefield’s Jaraman Shiraz is a fine example of it. The wine pours a deep, dark purple. The nose is reserved, presenting subtle aromas of wild berries and pepper. The palate is much more assertive, offering lush blueberry and black cherry along with black pepper, some dusty chocolate, and medium tannins. The wine is fruity but completely dry, and the finish is long and enjoyable. This wine drinks fine by itself but really shines with food. A- / $30

2015 Wakefield Estate Shiraz – South Australia offers some of the most enjoyable bargain bottles of Shiraz you can find, and Wakefield’s lower-end Estate Shiraz shows why. On the nose and palate, this wine offers ripe plum and blackberry. Flavors of tart cherry and gentle tannins also appear. Very approachable, this wine is enjoyable with or without food. B / $17

2015 Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a juicy, fruity wine on the nose, with lots of ripe plum accompanied by a touch of mint. The lush plum carries forward into the palate, but is restrained by just the right amount of tannin. The finish is surprisingly dry for such a fruity wine and just a little bit astringent. This is an excellent value Cabernet, showing richness and depth at an affordable price. B+ / $17

2015 Wakefield Estate Merlot – Merlot rarely comes to mind when one considers the wines of South Australia, but Wakefield Estate Merlot is solid. When first opened, the nose was fairly tight. Allowed to sit for an hour, it revealed cherry and spice aromas. On the palate, the wine was more expressive, presenting black cherry, cinnamon, a touch of chocolate, and soft tannins. The finish is quite enjoyable as the flavors slowly fade but never turn bitter. B / $17

wakefieldwines.com or taylorswines.com.au

Review: High West A Midwinter Nights Dram 5.4

A Midwinter Nights Dram is High West’s excellent Rendezvous Rye, finished in French oak and ex-Port barrels, bottled non-chill filtered. We first reviewed this unique whiskey in 2014 and gave it high marks (review can be read here). We briefly reviewed last year’s release and gave it an A (review can be read here), but I think this year’s bottling might be even better.

In the glass, this whiskey is a bright copper color. The nose offers rich red cherry and strong spearmint notes. The palate presents lots of brandied cherry, coupled with cinnamon and candied ginger. The finish is quite long with its robust rye character fading to a final note of dark chocolate. This is a full bodied dram with lots going on, and the flavors blend beautifully.

98.6 proof.

A / $90 / highwest.com

Review: Breckenridge Brewery Oak Aged Saison

Oak Aged Saison is part of Breckenridge’s “Brewery Lane Series,” a line of specialty brews that aim to be adventurous in style and approach. This particular beer is made with French Saison yeast and Gewurztraminer grape juice. The beer is aged for 55 days in oak barrels and clocks in at more than 10% alcohol. The beer’s abv is particularly surprising when you realize that many Gewurztraminer wines aren’t much higher than that.

Poured into a pint glass, Oak Aged Saison presents a rich, clear, copper color. The nose abundantly expresses the wild yeasty notes one expects of a saison along with a mild sweetness that likely comes from the grape juice. On the palate, the beer diverges significantly from other saisons and establishes Breckenridge’s unique take on the style. The Gewurztraminer juice blends with the saison into what tastes like a lovely hybrid of beer and wine. The beer flavor takes precedence, but the juiciness and spice of the Gewurztraminer grapes complement the saison beautifully. The high alcohol content is fairly well-hidden in the rich flavor of the Saison yeast and the bright acidity of the grape juice.

I applaud all efforts to push the envelope and see what can be accomplished with creativity and audacious brewing. Breckenridge’s Oak Aged Saison is a fine example of what happens when experimentation goes well. I can only imagine how well this beer would accompany spicy jambalaya, Indian food, or Szechuan Chinese.

10.3% abv.

A- / $NA per 750ml bottle / breckbrew.com

Review: Lawson’s Finest Liquids Sip of Sunshine IPA

Vermont is pretty serious beer country, and brewers in the state have managed, in a few short years, to make New England style IPA a unique and respected variety across the USA. Whereas West Coast IPA is usually clear and shows piney dankness and a strong, bitter finish, New England IPA appears hazy and presents tropical fruit flavors with far less bitterness at the end. Sip of Sunshine is one of the most popular and coveted examples of the New England style. Lawson’s recently expanded production, which means that instead of waiting in long lines to get the beer in Vermont, people can wait in long lines to get it at stores throughout New England, where it sells out in hours and sometimes sooner.

Sip of Sunshine is a bold, assertive New England-style IPA, somewhere between an IPA and a double IPA. There is balance and complexity in this beer, but not subtlety. Poured into a glass, the beer appears hazy and bright orange-gold. The nose offers an array of tropical fruit including lots of fresh pineapple and grapefruit. There is a touch of malt as well. The palate follows the nose, with a burst of tropical fruit, but there is a fair amount of bitterness as well, which contributes to the beer’s crisp finish. The malt introduces a little sweetness, adding complexity.

There is a lot of hype surrounding this beer, and I have to say, Sip of Sunshine manages to impress. It is bold, balanced, fresh, and flavorful. Some people who enjoy this beer recommend that it be enjoyed soon after purchase since the flavors can fade if it languishes in the closet or in one’s refrigerator for too long. But if you like IPA at all, I don’t think you have to worry.

8% abv.

A+ / $15 per 16 oz. four-pack / lawsonsfinest.com

Review New Amsterdam Raspberry and Lemon Vodkas

In the last few years, we’ve reviewed (and recommended) a number of New Amsterdam products due to their wide availability, low price point, and general quality (you can find those reviews here, here, here, here, and here). The addition of Raspberry and Lemon flavors to New Amsterdam’s range of flavored vodkas makes sense, and the new products follow recent precedent in both their strengths and weaknesses.

Tasting notes follow. Both are at 70 proof.

New Amsterdam Raspberry Vodka – Sampled straight, New Amsterdam Raspberry Vodka tastes like a hard Jolly Rancher candy. It is exceedingly sweet and sour, with virtually no alcoholic bite at all. With a few sips, the amount of sugar in the product becomes virtually overwhelming, and I wouldn’t recommend mixing it with tonic or anything that is also sweet. Perhaps seltzer is the best mixer since the bubbles and water would dilute the cloying candy flavor. Anyone looking for genuine raspberry flavor will be disappointed, but taken for what it is (candy-flavored vodka), New Amsterdam’s Raspberry Vodka is enjoyable enough and will probably fill a niche.  B- / $13

New Amsterdam Lemon Vodka – It seems a bit odd for New Amsterdam to offer a Lemon vodka after previously releasing a Citron variety, but the two are different enough that it makes sense. The primary distinction is the level of sweetness, with the Lemon showing even more sugar. The Lemon Vodka does not hide its alcohol as well as the Raspberry and even at 70 proof, it is hot on the nose and the palate. Sampling this vodka blind, I would probably guess I was drinking a full-on Kamikaze. It is sweet and lemony, like a lemon drop, leaving behind a citric acid burn. Like the Raspberry, the Lemon would also go well with an unsweetened mixer, like seltzer, but New Amsterdam suggests mixing it with iced tea, and I think they are on to something with that idea. Unsweetened iced tea takes some of the alcoholic bite out of the vodka while the sweetness of the vodka seems appropriate to my expectations of sweetened lemon tea. B- / $13

newamsterdamspirits.com

Drinking the Bottom Shelf Vol. 3: Gin – Seagram’s, Dover Strait, New Amsterdam

Good liquor can be expensive, but it doesn’t have to be. This review continues our project of considering bargain bottles by looking at three inexpensive gins. For those on a budget who want to drink well, the results are promising — at least, better than when we looked at whiskey (here and here)! Since gin is minimally aged, it typically is not as labor intensive as many whiskeys, which means producers can spend a little more on higher-quality raw materials.

Here are three bargain bottles we put through the paces.

Seagram’s Extra Dry Gin

Seagram’s is just approachable enough to drink straight, although I don’t really recommend it. Orange rind and pungent alcohol notes figure prominently in the nose and the palate, with juniper (gin’s most common component) appearing only very faintly in the finish. I am surprised by how hot this gin is considering it is only 80 proof. Tonic tames the alcohol, but the flavors don’t really blend well. One might do better to follow Snoop Dogg’s recommendation and use Seagram’s for “gin and juice.” 80 proof. C+ / $11 / seagramsgin.com

Dover Strait American Gin Extra Dry

This is my first experience with Dover Strait, and I’m not encouraged by the nose. Rather than notes of juniper, I detect nail polish remover and a little ginger ale with a touch of lemon rind. On the palate, Dover is less off-putting. The acetone notes are completely absent, and the gin comes across as an inexpensive, but not offensive, vodka. The lemon rind notes appear on the palate, but they are very subtle. Adding tonic makes me think I’m drinking a vodka tonic, which is not such a bad thing, but the smell of nail polish remover lingers. 80 proof. C- / $10

New Amsterdam Gin

The nose and palate of New Amsterdam (see prior review here as well) make it the most palatable of the three gins, and I had no qualms about drinking it straight. We have reviewed this gin before, and on a new tasting, the notes remain the same. Juniper appears on the nose, but orange and orange rind are far and away the dominant notes on the palate. This might annoy gin purists who want juniper to appear front and center, but I happen to like a lemon twist in my martinis, and I found this gin to be smooth enough to appear in one. For bargain hunters who agree, New Amsterdam is an affordable and enjoyable gin. In a gin and tonic, New Amsterdam is a vibrant, citrusy cocktail, ideal for a hot day. 80 proof. B / $12 / newamsterdamspirits.com

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