Review: Bunnahabhain 40 Years Old

By David Tao | December 1, 2024 |

Sometimes, a storied distillery happens upon “lost” casks in their warehouses. More rare, perhaps, is when they find lost casks in someone else’s possession. That’s the official, press-release emphasized story behind Bunnahabhain’s newest 40 year expression, which recently hit the American market alongside its 30 year old offering.

Here’s the backstory, according to Bunnahabhain:

This unique and rare expression was matured for four decades in a warehouse by the sea in casks that were all but forgotten until Bunnahabhain’s blending team discovered them while reviewing the warehouse ledgers. Sourced from the legendary wines and spirits merchant J.G Turney, these casks have been home to this stunning whisky for the past forty years.

It’s not quite confirmed if this release comes from the same stock of 40 year barrels the distillery originally “discovered” back in 2012; based on the provenance, proof, and backstory, signs point to yes. We don’t know much else regarding cask type.

Let’s dive in!

You can barely get your nose near the glass before being hit with a wave of fruits, baked, tropical, and fresh orchard fruits among them. Fresh pineapple, ripe guava, papaya, persimmon, green plantain, raspberry, and pears in syrup are all present and accounted for on a nose that carries both ethanol and tart fruit aromas greater than its proof implies. Right under that fruit basket lies hot caramel, dark toffee, and just a hint of mint chocolate. Dry wood tannins cut through the fruit at the very end of a deep inhale; for such a busy nose, it’s mighty well composed, and a treat to sniff.

The first taste brings toffee, baking chocolate, and espresso, followed shortly thereafter by tart berries and pineapple upside down cake. Silky mango pudding and coconut cream lead the next few tastes, and that espresso element hangs on just long enough to be noticeable in the back palate. It’s a tropical dessert and after-meal coffee all at once.

Cinnamon spice lightly punctuates the finish as the dominant flavors tip over into overripe pineapple and Luxardo cherry. It’s a slightly dryer last act, but after such a rich and fruity finish, the amped up tannins provide contrast and really help stick the landing.

83.8 proof.

A / $3,786 (700ml) / bunnahabhain.com