Review: Wines of Gil Family Estates, 2023 Releases

By Rob Theakston | June 22, 2023 |

Over the course of a century, the family of Juan Gil Giménez has very quietly established themselves as a family dynasty in Spanish wine lore, spanning over four generations and expanding to nearly a dozen brand names and more vineyards than one cares to count. With no signs of slowing down any time soon, it can be difficult for even the most devoted Spanish wine fan to keep tabs on everything being produced. We recently sat down to try four of their offerings: two Tempranillos, a Monastrell, and a red blend.

2020 Juan Gil Silver Organic Monastrell – A 100% Monastrell from the Jumilla region, which also serves as home base for the Gil operations. After some time in the glass, the aromatic red berry notes are accompanied by touches of milk chocolate, crème de cassis, and a slight touch of tobacco leaf on the palate. An incredibly long finish presents some spice and oak to provide added depth. A delightful bottle and, depending on the food pairing partner, the best of the cohort. A- / $17

2020 Rosario Vera Rioja Tempranillo – Hand-picked Tempranillo grapes from the Rioja region with low yields, fermented in small vats and then transferred to French oak barrels for less than a year. Earthy and fruity, with a brisk blackberry winding its way through notes of cigar box, licorice rope, and dark cherry. It is incredibly well-balanced and elegant, with a delightfully long finish full of oak and spice notes providing layers of warmth. Beautifully constructed and worth the consideration of buying two: one for now and one for a well-deserved encore presentation. A- / $16

2020 Can Blau Red Blend – The percentages of Cariñena, Syrah, and Garnacha found in this Montsant blend are not readily disclosed, but judging on the percentages from past vintages, it’s a strong guess that it’s a combination of about 50% Cariñena, 25% Syrah and 25% Garnacha aged one year in oak barrels. Heavy with notes of black fruit, violets and light smoke maintaining a balance throughout, all framed by bright acidity and chewy tannins. The balance shifts in favor of earthiness on the finish, with tobacco leaf, oak and spice B+ / $17

2019 Tridente Tempranillo – A 100% aged for 15 months in French oak barrels. Big and fruity with vibrant notes of sweet cherry, plum and cocoa powder throughout. The cherry swells in volume toward the lengthy finish complemented by well-rounded tannins, a nice lift of bright acidity, and just a slight touch of spice. B+ / $16

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