A hefty slug of anise strikes the palate first when sipping on this Sonoma-grown roussanne, a rarity in the U.S. and particularly unseen in Sonoma, from Sosie. (Only 400 acres of the varietal is grown in all of California.) After the herbal rush, a mix of grapefruit and lemon gives the wine a slight citrus kick, then more lush notes of baked pears come to the fore. They don’t last, though — the wine retreats quickly to a place of earthy savoriness, with plenty more of that almost gritty anise character clinging to the finish. A definite wine built for discussion, not porch-pounding.
B / $38 / sosiewines.com