Review: Highland Park Viking Honour 12 Years Old (2019)

Review: Highland Park Viking Honour 12 Years Old (2019)

Review: Highland Park Viking Honour 12 Years Old (2019)

Recently, Flaviar revamped its spirits club by upgrading what members get. The big news, in addition to a set of minis tailored to your tastes sent to you each quarter, you also get a full 750ml bottle of something as well. The fine print: it’s $95 for a single shipment or $300 for four shipments over the course of a year. Tasting kits include three 50ml samples and the full-size bottle has to have a retail price of under $60. Shipping is free, which makes this a pretty decent deal, especially if you sign up for the year-long plan.

As part of a sample shipment that Flaviar sent me, I opted for an old favorite as my 750ml bottle: Highland Park 12 Years Old.

Highland Park has always been on my greatest hits list, but recent changes at the distillery have made it hard to determine what’s what, with various new expressions hitting at a rapid pace, some with age statements, some without. To wit, HP’s classic 12 year old was recently rebranded as “Viking Honour,” though it retains its 12 year old age statement. It’s unclear what, if anything, has changed from a production standpoint, which leaves me with only these updated tasting notes. Thoughts follow.

Highland Park Viking Honour 12 Years Old (2019) Review

The nose of the new Viking Honour is grainy and a bit green, with a rather burnt cereal character coming through at times. Maritime notes are clear, with iodine, sea spray, and a bit of peat giving the whisky a slightly smoky and bluntly ashy note — more so than I recall from prior bottlings. The palate is at first salty and lightly peaty before rolling into a note of sweet cereal, honey, and orange marmalade. There’s evidently some sherry influence here which helps add nuance, but the experience always feels like it’s on the edge of being a bit vegetal. On the finish, I get notes of flambeed banana, caramel, vanilla, and an edge of dry spices. All told, it’s a bit pedestrian — at 12 years old, Highland Park has never been at the top of its game — though it remains arguably still worth a look.

86 proof.

B / $55 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

Highland Park Viking Honour 12 Years Old (2019)

USD55
8

Rating

8.0/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

1 Comment

  1. Mike on December 2, 2019 at 3:05 pm

    Highland Park 12 used to be one of my favorite reasonably priced whiskies, but along with the bottle redesign I think there is also a marked decline in the quality of the juice. In my opinion it was on par w Mccallan 12, albeit less sweet and more leathery, but no longer. I will remember the old bottle and formulation fondly.

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