Miachel-David is a winery in California’s Lodi region, where it produces wine under a half-dozen or so labels, especially the Zinfandels for which the region is so well-known.

Incognito is a label with two wines, both oddball blends. We tried both of the wines from the latest vintage, which have seen new labeling and branding.

2009 Incognito White is a blend of 58% Viognier, 19% Chardonnay, 9% Malvasia Bianca, 7% Roussanne, 4% Sauvignon Blanc, and 3% Symphony grapes. That Viognier character dominates the blend, with fresh peach and nectarine notes, but the apple and tart lemon character of some of the other grapes — particularly Sauvignon Blanc — come around as well. I like the balance here, and served cold this is a crisp and easy-drinking white. A- / $18

2008 Incognito Red is created — so they say — in a Rhone style, with 21% Syrah, 18% Carignan, 18% Cinsault, 13% Tannat, 11% Souzou, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Mourvedre, and 3% Petite Sirah. Very, very smoky, the core is plum and cherry, but it’s got almost a charred wood character to it. And yet the body is surprisingly light. The finish is on the rustic side. It grows on you, but it doesn’t have the weight to back up the more exotic elements it’s throwing out. B / $18

lodivineyards.com

2009 Incognito White

$18

9

Rating

9.0/10