Review: The Balvenie DoubleWood 12, PortWood 21, Single Barrel 15, and Madeira Cask 17 (2009)

Review: The Balvenie DoubleWood 12, PortWood 21, Single Barrel 15, and Madeira Cask 17 (2009)

Review: The Balvenie DoubleWood 12, PortWood 21, Single Barrel 15, and Madeira Cask 17 (2009)

Last night, The Balvenie was kind enough to host a few media types for a dinner and tasting of its four current release Scotch bottlings, including its Madeira Cask 17 Years Old, which just arrived in the U.S. a week ago. Some of these are classic bottlings that have been around for years (seriously — this Speyside distillery is now on its fifth generation of family ownership and is now the 4th best-selling single malt brand in the world), and some were new to me. Here’s how they stacked up.

The Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Years Old (2009) – The company’s most widely available spirit, which spends 12 years in bourbon casks and 9 months in sherry butts. Sweet honey is complemented by a tiny bit of brine and a touch of sherry on the finish. A great everyday whisky. 86 proof. A- [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

The Balvenie PortWood 21 Years Old – A masterpiece with perfect balance, finished in Port pipes, giving the whisky an incredible, wine-inflected character. Honey and caramel are big, but there’s a citrusy perfume that’s at play, too. Quite sweet, but not cloying. 86 proof. A [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

The Balvenie Single Barrel 15 Years Old – The whisky that generated the most conversation, this single-barrel malt was my least favorite of the bunch, a more intensely woody, sea-salty Scotch that felt tough, and less in balance, than its brethren. Big alcohol needs tempering, too. 95.6 proof. B [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

The Balvenie Madeira Cask 17 Years Old – The new kid on the block, aged in sherry casks and finished with Madeira barrels. It’s got a big spicy kick to it, separating it from the rest of the Balvenie lineup, with a finish that evokes flowers and even ginger. Unusual but not way “out there,” and overall quite drinkable. 86 proof. A- [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

The Balvenie Madeira Cask 17 Years Old

USD300
9

Rating

9.0/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

1 Comment

  1. Dennis DeMolet on February 10, 2010 at 10:05 pm

    Just received a Balvenie Scotch 17 year Madeira Cask bottle while at the Capitol Hill club in Washington D.C. from a freind of mine. As a traditional Balvenie doublewood 12yr old drinker, I was amazed at the charater of this 17 year old Scotch. a Thumbs up for Balvenie. I must admit it takes a bit of adjustment but what an adjustment for this is a prize to be sought after.

Leave a Comment





This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.