Review: Benriach Triple Distilled 22 Years Old
Review: Benriach Triple Distilled 22 Years Old
Speyside’s Benriach is one of the few Scotch whisky producers to offer a triple distilled expression. While it remains the norm in Ireland, triple distillation is exceedingly rare in Scotland, typically the purview of Lowland whisky-makers like Auchentoshan and Rosebank who are known for their lighter styles of single malt. For how much longer we can count Benriach among those rare few remains unclear.
In 2022, the distillery launched a line for travel retail that included two triple distilled offerings, one a 10-year-old and this bottle, a 22-year-old expression containing some of the distillery’s earliest triple distilled whisky (they reportedly began occasionally triple distilling in 1999). Bottles can still be found online and presumably in some travel retail outlets, but a new 25-year-old officially replaced it last year.
All of Benriach’s Triple Distilled expressions feature a trio of maturation that includes both ex-bourbon and virgin oak casks. The 10-year-old sees some time in Pedro Ximenez while the older expressions like this one have aged in unspecified sherry casks, presumably oloroso. Thoughts follow.
The aroma is light but not without considerable depth. Silky notes of graham cracker, orange blossom honey, cocoa powder, and crème brulee highlight an elegant maturity, not exactly cask-driven but seasoned and nicely mellowed over time. It evolves in the glass, eventually revealing apple turnover and a bit of chai spice. The palate is gentle but offers an impressive intensity of flavor, especially at this modest abv. Top notes of bright candy apple and fresh cinnamon stick deliver an early energy. A pleasantly round mouthfeel accentuates juicy notes of white peach and apricot before transitioning to more cocoa-dusted almonds and chocolate mousse on the midpalate. The finish is warm with a gingery spice and lingering notes of old oak, marmalade, and marzipan.
The trio of casks and triple distillation have clearly influenced this single malt, but the fruity hallmarks of the Benriach house style nevertheless remain intact. An elegant dram to be sure, and a solid value if you can still find it at the original MSRP.
93.6 proof.
A / $200
Benriach Triple Distilled 22 Years Old
$200
