I’m spending a week in southern Germany and just finished a wonderful meal with Lenz Moser of Laurenz V at the Schlosshotel in Kronberg. Check out what I encountered earlier today at Frankfurt’s mammoth Christmas fair. Anyone else ever seen this? Off to the Rheingau tomorrow!
Posted in Tennessee Whiskey, Travel, Whiskey, Wine
WhiskyFest remains the whiskey enthusiast’s festival to beat. With hundreds of whiskeys, it is a mad dash for all sorts of great stuff — if only you can find it in the scattered auditorium and muscle your way to the front of the line. Don’t worry, you can do it, and even though the 2011 installment of this awesome event had more than its share of no-shows from the advance whisky list — Isle of Jura Shackleton, Tomatin 30 Year Old, Pierre Ferrand Ancestrale Cognac, the entire Usqueabach table — there were so many amazing whiskeys here it is hard to complain.
Favorites were unilaterally from the private bottling companies, including Duncan Taylor’s killer 36 Year Old Lonach Blend, Gordon & MacPhail Glen Grant 21 Years Old — all that time in ex-sherry butts — and maybe by new favorite whisky ever, Samaroli Evolution 2011. Notes on all of these follow, plus comments (however brief) on everything else I sampled during the evening.
Thanks again to Whisky Advocate (nee Malt Advocate) for putting on such a terrific show (and inviting me).
Scotland
Samaroli Evolution 2011 / A+ / this Rome-based private whisky bottler was a fave at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, and this bottling was a revelation; a vatting of whisky stocks dating back to 1957, it is incredibly supple, complex, and impossible to put down
Samaroli Glenlivet Top Class 1977 / A- / amazing elegance
Samaroli Linkwood Top Class 1983 / B+ / bit tougher
Samaroli Glenburgie 1989 / B+ / rich and chewy
Samaroli Highland Park 1989 / B+ / has an edge to it
Samaroli Bunnahabhain 1990 / B+ / surprising sweetness
Auchentoshan Valinch / B / hard finish
Auchentoshan Bordeaux 1999 / B+ / sweetness up front leads to a rough finish
Auchentoshan 21 Year Old / B+ / my fave of the Auch line, better balance
Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve / B
Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage / B / big nougat notes lead to a strange, funky finish
Tomatin Highland Single Malt 25 Year Old / B+ / almost American in styling, sweet finish
Tomatin Highland Single Malt Decades / A- / a vatting of 5 decades’ worth of whisky; complex and lots of fun
Isle of Jura Superstition / A- / nice balance with the peat here
Isle of Jura 16 Year Old / B / big grain notes, exotic
Laphroaig Triple Wood / B+ / finished in sherry, which adds just a touch of citrus to standard Laphroaig’s peat and iodine; interesting but could go farther
Gordon & MacPhail Benromach 10 Year Old / B / young but charming
Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Port Finish 10 Year Old / B+ / nice mix of smoke and sweet, needs more aging
Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood 15 Year Old / A-
Gordon & MacPhail Glen Grant 21 Years Old / A / spends all 21 years in sherry casks, an amazing whisky, deep and rich (by far the darkest Scotch I saw all night)
Gordon & MacPhail Tamdhu 30 Years Old / B+ / a bit over the hill, wood-wise
Compass Box Great King Street / A- / a masterful blended whisky
Springbank 14 Year Old Manzanilla Cask / B+ / big olive notes
Springbank 18 Year Old / B+ / not feeling it tonight; too much of a coal character
Kilkerran WIP 3rd Release / B+ / like Kilbeggan, Kilkerran is doing releases as its whisky ages; at 3 years old it is young but exciting, lots of promise ahead
Duncan Taylor Banff 35 Year Rich and Rare / A / amazing fruit and wood here, lovely finish
Duncan Taylor Lonach Blend 36 Year / A / cinnamon and apple pie, all sorts of fun
GlenDronach 21 Year Old Parliament / B+ / curious wood and spice notes
GlenDronach 15 Year Old 1995 Pedro Ximenez Cask #2045 / B
Tequila Corrido Extra Anejo Barrel #2 / A / a smooth operator, lovely chocolate finish
Macallan 18 Year Old / A-
Highland Park 25 Year Old / A- / musky finish
Bruichladdich Black Art 2 / B+ / finish delves deep into grain character
Bruichladdich Octomore 3/152 / A- / the new “most peated” whisky in the world, actually quite pleasant and not the bowl-you-over dram I was expecting; more like a barbecue than a smoke bomb
Ardbeg Corryvreckan / A
Ardbeg Alligator / A- / Ardbeg’s latest, aged in ultra-charred oak barrels; the wood really does battle with the peat here, giving it a curious but less enthralling character, I think
Ireland
Redbreast 12 Years Old / B+ / really woody kick; the reputation exceeds the whisky
Redbreast 15 Years Old / B+ / not terribly different
United States
Bardstown Riverboat Rye Whiskey / B / a younger version of Redemption Rye
Bardstown Temptation Bourbon / A- / good sweetness, balance
Bardstown Barrel Proof High Rye Bourbon / A / intensely rye-focused, and intensely alcoholic; not released (the company is hoping for 2012)
Koval Lion’s Pride Spelt Whiskey / B+ / aged 2 years; not bad, lots of grain character
Wild Turkey Russell’s Reserve 10 Years Old / A- / love the rye kick; probably better since it was poured by Jimmy Russell himself (picture below!)
George Dickel Barrel Select / A- / nice rye going on here
Not Whiskey
Frapin Cognac VS / A- / 4 years old; surprisingly clean for a $49 Cognac
Frapin Cognaac Chateau de Fontpinot XO / A- / big nose on it, great citrus and sherry finish
Frapin Cognac VIP XO / A- / quite similar to the Fontpinot
Frapin Cognac Extra / A / 75 years old, extremely complex, mellow, and lingering
Pierre Ferrand Cognac Selection des Anges / A- / beautiful, smooth
Pierre Ferrand Cognac Cigare / A / not smoky, and in fact not as big a body as you’d expect with a name like that; very well crafted and lush; drink with or without a cigar
Tequila Corrido Extra Anejo Barrel #2 / A / a killer, and the only tequila here; lovely chocolate finish
Posted in Bourbon, Brandy, Cognac, Irish Whiskey, Reviews, Scotch, Tennessee Whiskey, Tequila, Whiskey
Heresy? The changes are bigger than you’d think. Here’s the press release, and a before & after photo. I have to say, I think JD fans are going to hate this — mainly over the new bottle design.
LYNCHBURG, Tenn., May 16, 2011 /PRNewswire/ — The Jack Daniel Distillery announced today that it is making minor refinements to the familiar Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 bottle to accentuate the bottle’s square shoulders and also to simplify the front and side labels.
The company is quick to note that even though the bottle and label have been refined, the whiskey inside remains unchanged. The bottle will begin shipping this month and will be on most shelves by July.
“Mr. Jack Daniel was proud of the craftsmanship and care that went into his whiskey and wanted a bottle as unique as its smooth, mellow character,” said John Hayes, Senior Vice President, Managing Director Jack Daniel’s. ”That’s why in 1895, Jack made the decision to put his whiskey in a square bottle, unlike other whiskeys of his day. He wanted to make sure his whiskey stood out. The refinements today are meant to honor Mr. Jack’s desire that his bottle reflect the distinctive character of the whiskey.”
This is not the first time the Jack Daniel’s bottle and label have been updated. The first refinements go back to Jack Daniel who originally sold his whiskey by the barrel. He then moved from barrel to jug to the familiar square bottle. Over the years, during Mr. Jack’s day and after, refinements were made to the bottle and label: Gold medals were added to the side label as they were won; Lynchburg sayings were added and dropped; and, room was made for more information. Over time, so many things were added that the label began to look more cluttered than it was under Mr. Jack’s watch, according to the distillery.
“We think Mr. Jack would be proud of the refinements and how they honor his wish that his Old No. 7 whiskey be as distinctive in the bottle as it is in taste,” said Hayes.
Posted in Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey
You say apple pie, I say apple pie moonshine. Yes folks, it’s two great tastes that taste great together, with Tennessee’s Ole Smoky Distillery moonshine — 80% corn and 20% mystery — making up the backbone of a classic yet indescribable spirit.
The nose and body scream cinnamon and apples, in that order. This is as close to apple pie in a bottle as I’ve ever experienced (and yes, I’ve experienced other attempts), with an authentic sweet-and-spicy character that is — shockingly — far from cloying. It helps that Ole Smoky kept the alcohol to a mere 40 proof, which drains all the heat out of the spirit and makes it wholly suitable for sipping or for use as a grown-up dessert topping. There’s even a hint of the “moonshine” aspect of the spirit in there… somewhere.
I know, this sounds like it can’t be good, and for sure it’s nothing I’d drink every night, but something I’d drink once in a while… maybe with a banjo by my side.
B+ / $25 / olesmokymoonshine.com
Posted in Liqueurs, Rated B+, Reviews, Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey, White Whiskey
Gotta say, Jack Daniel’s knows how to launch a product. The sample bottle of its new honey-and-whiskey liqueur came in a refrigerated box, for no particular reason — it certainly doesn’t need to be kept chilled at all times — except that it is intended to be served cold.
Well, it’s been in my fridge ever since. I figure if they’re going to go to that kind of trouble, I better do as I’m told.
Honey+whiskey liqueurs have been coming out in absurd quantities over the last few years, so it comes as no surprise that JD would get in the game. Its version is as credible as anyone else’s: Honey kills the whiskey, but the whiskey leaves its mark. JD’s 70 proof version is pretty light on the honey — this is more of a smooth bourbon than a syrupy liqueur — but the adulteration makes it clear what the aspiration is here: Rocks, after dinner, maybe an ingredient in a cocktail.
The palate offers more than just honey: There is wood, vanilla, lavender, and notable lemon character as the finish fades away. Charcoal touches come on as the finish disappears completely. As honey liqueurs go, this has a lot going on, and that’s, as they say, a good thing. Who would’ve thought that in the realm of honey liqueur, it would be Jack that came up with the best of the lot.
A / $22 / jackdaniels.com
Posted in Liqueurs, Rated A, Reviews, Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey
Lately a backlash has been brewing (no pun intended) against pre-mixed, ready-to-drink cocktails, cocktails which actually have nothing to do with the products advertised on the label — whether it’s vodka, rum, whiskey, or something else — and are in fact simply flavored malt liquor pawned off to an unsuspecting audience.
Now some savvy drinkmakers are taking an alternate — if astonishingly obvious — alternate tack: Putting the actual ingredients promised on the label into the bottle. Shocking, huh?
Jack Daniel’s (which has had its own line of semi-nasty flavored malt beverages, Country Cocktails) is the latest to join the fray, adding its iconic Tennessee whiskey to cola, ginger ale, or diet cola, to give you these new, eponymous ready-to-drink spirits.
The recipes should not come as a shock: JD, plus one of the aforementioned ingredient flavorings (ah, plus carbonated water and caramel color), and that’s it. The flavors are authentic and legitimate: Whiskey & Cola (A-) tastes like just like you added Jack to a can of Coke. Whiskey & Ginger (B+) is also completely real, if a little less successful because the ginger ale used is a little on the sweet side, and lacks much in the way of bite. (We didn’t taste the Diet Cola version, which is also available.)
The only problem many will see with this approach is the strength of the finished product: At just 5 percent alcohol, no serious Jack & Anything drinker would ever water his beverage down this much. There are a variety of laws in place determining how strong these beverages can be, of course, but that doesn’t change the fact that you’re really drinking something on par with a beer, not a cocktail (which would probably be more in the range of 10 to 30 percent alcohol, depending on how you mix it).
But maybe that’s a good thing. Sold in aluminum bottles and perfect for the tailgate or the BBQ, these aren’t products for cocktail hour, they’re made for sitting in front of the TV or out on the porch while the sun goes down. For what these products are trying to accomplish (which, to be honest, is not a lot), they succeed admirably.
That said, it’s another question altogether as to how tough it is to make one of these drinks on your own: Is it really that complicated to take the world’s number one selling whiskey and the world’s number one selling soda and pour them into a glass together? Ponder your own self-disgust as you sip away…
$9 for four 12-oz. aluminum bottles / jackdaniels.com
It may not be canonically “Bourbon,” but the state of Tennessee is responsible for the best-selling whiskey in the world: Jack Daniel’s.
But Jack isn’t the only whiskey going in Kentucky’s next-door neighbor. Benjamin Prichard has been producing a variety of spirits — including a whole family of rums — for ten years now.
We got a peek at three of the distillery’s whiskeys (and one whiskey liqueur) — and the results prove that if you don’t know Prichard already, it’s time to start paying attention.
Benjamin Prichard’s Lincoln County Lightning – White lightning, folks. Unaged corn whiskey. Moonshine. At 90 proof it isn’t horrible, its enormous corn notes balanced with just a touch of sweetness. I’m admittedly not the world’s biggest fan of white whiskeys, but if I had to drink one, Prichard’s is at least passable. 90 proof. C+ / $NA
Benjamin Prichard’s Tennessee Whiskey – Now that’s more like it. An easy drinking whiskey, made of white corn, aged 10 years in barrel, and bottled at 80 proof, this Tennessee Whiskey was released to celebrate the distillery’s 10th year of operation. It’s worth the wait, very much a Bourbon at heart, sweet caramel notes balanced by a body that hints at its corn-based roots, a little black pepper, and vanilla on the finish. Nice balance. A- / $NA
Benjamin Prichard’s Double Barreled Bourbon Whiskey (pictured) – The notes on the back of this curiosity say that it’s a “little known fact” that whiskey is watered down before it’s bottled. I’m not sure many whiskey drinkers are unaware of that fact, but regardless, what Prichard’s does with this whiskey is age it at normal cask strength for nine years, then water it down to 90 proof, and then re-barrel the cut whiskey in charred oak barrels a second time. What advantage this might actually offer is hard to say. Prichard’s Double Barreled is hot and much spicier than the 10-year Tennessee Whiskey, indicative perhaps of more rye in the mash. A little harsh on the attack, it quickly reveals a huge and racy herbal character, tempered by brown sugar. Lots of intrigue and worth seeking out. Limited release. A- / $60
Benjamin Prichard’s Sweet Lucy Bourbon Based Liqueur – Sweet Lucy — now there’s a name for a liqueur. Like many a whiskey-based liqueur before it, Prichard’s rendition is overwhelmingly, well, sweet, a syrupy concoction that is overwhelmingly sugary, but which offers vague Bourbon character in the finish. With this much sweetness, it’s hard to really differentiate; if you’re a fan of American Honey and its ilk, you’ll find Sweet Lucy just as satisfying. 70 proof. B+ / $25
Posted in Liqueurs, Rated A-, Rated B+, Rated C+, Reviews, Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey, White Whiskey
Jack Daniel’s has several pre-mixed, ready-to-drink cocktails on the market. This one, which promises the classic combination of JD and ginger ale, is its latest.
Mind you, this is simply a (naturally) flavored malt beverage (at a mere 5 percent alcohol), but at least it looks the part, with a moderate caramel color on offer. The taste is quite light, a hint of ginger ale and the barest touch of whiskey character — a vague vanilla and charcoal wisp that doesn’t exactly scream bourbon country, but may at least make you understand why the Jack Daniel’s name is on the label.
Worth a taste for the summer libation seeker who doesn’t care for beer or wine. Connoisseurs can pass.
C+ / $8 per six pack of 10-ounce bottles / countrycocktails.com
Posted in Beer, Rated C+, Reviews, Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey
Your excitement about getting a bottle of this “single barrel” whiskey may dim somewhat when you read the lengthy alphanumeric code identifying the barrel from which it came. In my case, I’m sampling barrel number 7-4229 from rick number L-35 (warehousing information). So, yes, it’s from a single barrel… but we’re talking about thousands of barrels produced.
As for this barrel, it’s a reasonably pleasant whiskey, a sweeter version of JD that reminded me more of Gentleman Jack than standard grade Jack Daniel’s. Quite bitter and pungent on the finish, the caramel and vanilla notes are overpowered by smoke and tobacco, tar and tough wood. Better with water, but still on the more pedestrian side. Not sure it justifies this kind of fanaticism… but hey, every barrel is different, so there are bound to be some real gems in there, right?
94 proof.
B / $45 / jdsinglebarrel.com
Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey
Few liquor brands are as heralded as Jack Daniel’s, but it’s never been a favorite of mine. Too harsh for sipping and lacking character even in a Coke, Jack has just not been a big winner for me.
And not for lack of trying. You can’t go to a bar or a party without being surrounded by the stuff. I’ve had it on literally hundreds of occasions, but no matter how I doctor the stuff, it just never does the trick vs. some far better Bourbons. (And yes, I know Jack Daniel’s is not bourbon but “Tennessee Whiskey,” but a little shorthand is OK in my book.)
So what’s Gentleman Jack all about? It is, essentially, Jack Daniel’s that’s been through an additional charcoal filtering process with the goal of making the spirit smoother and mellower. (The distillery even calls it “Charcoal Mellowing.”)
And in general, it works. Gentleman Jack is significantly smoother and quite a bit sweeter, taking on a caramel and honey notes and a more gentle smokiness than standard JD. In fact, Gentleman Jack oddly tastes closer to a blended Scotch than a Bourbon. I’m not sure if that’s a good thing, but there it is.
Now in a new and more elegant bottle design (see pic below), GJ isn’t a bad deal at $25 a bottle, but overall I recommend it to people growing tired of standard Jack… or those who think there’s just nothing better out there.
B+ / $25 / gentlemanjack.com
Posted in Rated B+, Reviews, Tennessee Whiskey, Whiskey
