Review: Hennessy Master Blender’s Selection No. 5
Hennessy’s Master Blender’s Selection releases have been arriving at haphazard intervals since their 2016 launch. We reviewed Nos. 2 and 3, but missed out on No. 4. Now Master Blender’s Selection No. 5 is here — the first release in three years — so we’ll have to make up for lost time. This time out, Hennessy has a unique approach that has nothing to do with wood or raw ingredients, but rather people:
This latest limited edition blend celebrates the passion and expertise of 18 exceptional distillers. Each distiller plays a crucial role in enhancing the wines’ aromas, concentrating them in the heart of the selected eaux-de-vie which are specifically chosen by Renaud for their exceptional qualities.
Says Renaud Fillioux de Gironde, “I wanted to pay tribute to the artisans behind the scenes – exclusive Hennessy distillers who are experts and share with us, year after year, first-rate eaux-de-vie remarkable for their purity, finesse and potential. Some have been with us almost since the Maison was founded over 200 years ago. It generally takes many years of training between generations for the son or daughter of the current distiller to take over. It’s with these future generations that we’ll continue to grow and offer cognacs rooted in our terroir yet deeply contemporary in nature.”
To craft the Master Blender’s Selection No 5 requires an unprecedented eaux-de-vie selection process, followed by a maturing process of at least seven years in French oak barrels, lending to its aromatic complexity. Renaud has selected and combined different eaux-de-vie produced by these 18 unique families of distillers, merging their characters and personalities to create an unmatched cognac. Master Blender’s Selection is Hennessy’s only cognac bottled at 43%.
Concludes Renaud, “Being the 8th generation Master Blender is a tremendous honor, and I feel privileged to be able to continue the craft that was passed down to me by my uncle Yann Fillioux. With Master Blender’s Selection No 5, I opted for an innovative approach blend produced in a single batch that will never be replicated – this limited edition is a celebration of the collaborative spirit and expertise in the world of Cognac.”
Hennessy has a reputation for delicacy and fruitiness, but this Cognac is a different beast: Bold, toasty, and layered with darker, duskier notes. Aromas range from sweet tobacco to polished wood up top to notes of cherry cola and brewed tea as the aromatics build in the bowl of the glass. Florals emerge as dried and gently perfumed, heavy on purple flowers. A hint of orange peel, lightly bitter, arrives in time.
The palate doesn’t stray much from the theme: lightly sweet and heavy with cherry cola notes, a raspberry character quickly comes into focus to add a darker and more tart quality on the tongue. Increasingly laden with chocolate as it develops on the palate, the brandy slowly evolves to evoke a mix of coffee and black tea notes. The berry elements are never far from view, though, and they pair well with the late-breaking notes of caramel, vanilla, and baking spices that offer a festive, holiday feel to the finish.
I’ve enjoyed all the Hennessy Master Blender’s releases to date, but this is probably my favorite of the bunch.
86 proof.
A / $100 / hennessy.com
Hennessy Master Blender's Selection No. 5
$100
