Review: Maestro Dobel Atelier Tequila Extra Anejo, Trajineras Edition 2023

Review: Maestro Dobel Atelier Tequila Extra Anejo, Trajineras Edition 2023

Maestro Dobel‘s latest tequila is plenty old, but it isn’t a cristalino but a traditional extra anejo, complete with natural color driven from the barrel.

This is actually the second release of Dobel’s “Atelier Tequila” Extra Anejo expression, which launched last year — and which you can still find online. The bottles are decidedly unique, coming in five hand-painted versions (check the photo to see what I mean), each clad in a wooden box “created to honor traditional Mexican craftsmen and techniques, in art and in tequila.” The 2023 edition pays homage to the “trajineras,” which are colorful flat-bottomed boats found in the canals of Xochimilco, a borough of Mexico City.

These tequilas bear no formal or informal age information save that they are matured “in small American and Eastern European oak barrels.” Extra anejo tequila, by legal definition, must be at least 3 years old.

So let’s dig in.

There’s plenty of peppery agave on the nose here, the tequila showcasing a grassy earthiness that we don’t often find in the extra anejo category. It’s of course backed up by plenty of sweeter, barrel-driven notes, layering vanilla atop the core of pepper and greenery. This works surprisingly well, creating a cohesive whole akin to a spicy dessert rather than any kind of back-and-forth duality.

The palate shifts the focus toward sweeter elements, vanilla custard melding with baking spices that layer in notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and a light touch of toasted sesame oil. Creamy and rounded, the tequila makes room for a pinch of green peppercorn spice and some jalapeno before returning to a finish that soothes with intense notes of vanilla and milk chocolate, creating something of a Mexican hot chocolate character that lingers for half a minute or more. Plus booze, of course.

As a side note, a complaint: The thick lip on the bottle makes the rounded stopper very difficult to remove because you can’t get your hand around it easily. Fix this for 2024, Dobel!

80 proof. NOM 1122.


Maestro Dobel Atelier Tequila Extra Anejo: Trajineras Edition, 2023




Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content creation company.

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