Review: Dyfi Gin Pollination Edition

Review: Dyfi Gin Pollination Edition

First surprise: “Dyfi,” which hails from Wales, is pronounced “Dovey.” And let me be the first to say, good luck calling for it in your martini at the bar!

Made in a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the gin incorporates classic gin botanicals along with hand-foraged Welsh botanicals, including “wild flowers, aromatic leaves, fruits, and conifer tips.” Grain neutral spirit is used as a base, of unstated origin. Formerly this was known as “Dyfi Pollination Gin,” but the branding has changed to make “Pollination” an “edition,” in tiny type.

That’s not much to work with, but let’s taste all the same.

Classic, London dry-styled nose. A punch of juniper, lightly earthy, and layers of fresh grass — alongside a mossy quality with a light touch of seaweed and saline. I was hoping for more of those “fruits” but if they’re present, they’re definitely well buried. The palate maintains the focus — savory, earthy, and lightly herbal. Again it feels like it’s missing the brightness that makes a good gin great, mired in notes of damp underbrush, sea spray, and moderated notes of pine needles and sap. The finish is a bit doughy and, while not unappealing, it lacks much to grab onto. Again, it feels rather one note, like you’re chewing on underbrush, rubbing those conifer tips on your gums.

While Dyfi — which I will probably always pronounce “Di-Fi” — is always enjoyable, for $70 a bottle I was hoping for a whole lot more complexity.

90 proof.

B / $70 / dyfidistillery.com

Dyfi Gin Pollination Edition

$70
8

Rating

8.0/10

Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content creation company.

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