No matter the subject, anytime “glorious” is interjected into a product’s brand name, hopes are elevated rather highly that it will live up to its intended promise. What’s more accurate, however, is the label on this wine’s declaration that it is a “wine of character for those who embrace their own.” You’ll find no argument with that stemming from this direction. This Uco Valley Malbec elicits character straight away with a bold introduction of plum and oak that is relentless, even with a good 45-minute decanting. Ripe tannins are tempered mid-palate by notes of mocha and violet, and just a touch of baking spice.

It’s ready to drink now, but I can’t help but wonder if a few years stored away would provide this bottle with a bit more time to temper some of its present-day intensity. However, if you do elect to uncork after buying, be prepared to commit a decent block of time for maximum enjoyment. While “glorious” remains a subjective point of contention, “expressive” is most certainly not up for debate.

B+ / $19 / graffignawines.com

2020 Graffinga Glorious Selection Malbec

$19

8.5

Rating

8.5/10