This 2016 bottling of Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva, made by the Frescobaldi family, has austerity to spare. This bold bottling feels like it’s still a bit out of reach for ideal consumption, a bit tough and balsamic today, its cherry-fueled core choked by notes of blackberry brambles, dark chocolate, and a slightly weedy character late in the game. Time in glass helps things open up, but some tougher notes of rosemary and licorice root keep the finish on the tight side, though oddly that balsamic element adds at least some level of lively acidity. This may mellow out a bit in the cellar after another 3 to 5 years.
B / $35 / frescobaldi.com