The latest offering from Texas-based Milam & Greene has arrived, the second expression of its Distillery Edition. (We missed the first release.) Unlike some of M&G’s releases, which are blends of sourced and in-house-distilled spirit, the Distillery Edition is a “grain to glass” whiskey, made from the standard M&G “sweet” mash of 70% corn, 22% rye, and 8% barley. Aged for 3 to 3 1/2 years, bottled at cask strength.
This is a typical Texas monster, powerfully woody with loads of fresh corn on the nose. The aroma is well spiced with cinnamon and a brown sugar kick — but it’s never really sweet. The palate doubles down on the corn notes, fresh and salty Corn Nuts dusted with black pepper, cumin, and baking spice — all components that come to think of it would be great in a nice bowl of Texas chili. The big barrel char note hits heavy as the finish builds, a clear nod to the whiskey’s youth, the cinnamon segueing into clove territory. More of that sultry cumin on the finish, plus a hint of well-toasted marshmallow to add some needed sweetness.
At full strength, this is tough and aggressive, but there’s plenty of exuberance and at least a fleeting sense of balance to keep things interesting — and for more than one pour. One can’t help but think that this series will be more impactful as it gets more age under its feet, but for now it’s worth a shot or two. That aside, for the time being M&G’s multi-distillate blends like its killer Triple Cask Bourbon remain the clear go-to offerings for the brand.
Available for a limited time, namely at the distillery.
B+ / $120 / milamandgreene.com