Review: 2017 Mascota Vineyards Unanime Malbec
The front page of the Mascota Vineyards website reminds the reader that “pleasure is a treasure.” However well-intended, the sentiment bears resemblance to something displayed in cursive lettering, carved into wood while hanging in the waiting area of a rural Midwestern beauty salon. Enough on taglines, on to brass tacks:
Mascota’s vineyards lie at the foot of the Andes Mountains, barely a thousand meters away from the Mendoza River, and cover 100 hectares of land, 97 of which are implanted with grapes. The main varieties produced are Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Shiraz among the reds; and Chardonnay among the whites. The oldest wine is a Cabernet Sauvignon lot which was planted 41 years ago. The average age of the vineyards is 30 years, ranging from the 5-year-old new blocks to the oldest ones planted in the ’70s.
As much as a cabernet from the Reagan era sounds pleasurable, today we enjoy a malbec from 2017. Let us uncork.
It’s a dark ruby color with loads of depth: blackberry jam, black cherry, and a hint of fresh cedar sawdust at first, with vanilla and oak entering the conversation on the palate. It’s well-balanced with minimal acidity and a medium-length finish that diminishes on the ever-present blackberry note, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. While your time and bottle may vary, I found it best to let this pleasure treasure rest in the glass for about 20-30 minutes before enjoying it.
B+ / $25 / mascotavineyards.com [BUY IT NOW FROM TOTAL WINE]
Let me just say that I thought it was “brass tax” and also “Regan” so my opinion needs to be discounted by at minimum 50%. Having said that I liked this wine very much. I’ve been getting into malbecs recently and my general impression is you they drink well young and you don’t need to spend a fortune to get a good one.
I appreciate Mr. Theakston’s review because it gave me a deeper appreciation for a wine I already liked. I’m not always able to pick out individual tasting points before they’re pointed out to me (tho I’m getting better at it) and it always helps to have an expert guide me through it
Hey Ted…no need to discount your opinion. You like what you like and that’s the best part of the whole journey. There are plenty of malbecs out there that are enjoyable which won’t break the bank. Luca Old Vine Malbec is sensational if you’re willing to shell out another $10 for a bottle, and Domaine Bousquet’s 2020 Cameleon and Inkarri 2019 (I *think* it’s 19. Do not have my notes in front of me) are excellent bottles to be found at the $25 or less range.
Happy Holidays, stay safe and take care!