Review: NV Cockburn’s Porto Branco
Summer is made for mixing up cocktails with white Port — just add tonic and an orange slice if you have it. Cockburn’s nonvintage Porto Branco offers an approachable, if innocuous, way to explore some of the charms of this unique wine — at a very reasonable price.
It’s a classic example of the style, offering oxidized white wine notes and an ample pear character, though on the palate the body feels a bit on the gummy side. Increasingly floral as the wine develops, its natural sweetness comes to a head quickly, showcasing nutmeg and honey-soaked gingerbread elements. The finish is unfortunately a bit funky and gamy, its sharpness best tempered by including it alongside an ample dosing of tonic.
B / $15 / cockburns.com
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