Review: NV Billionaires Row Champagne Les Roses
Good news, billionaires. There’s more than Cognac out there for you, there’s also a tax-bracket-friendly Champagne from the good folks at Billionaires Row: a rose Brut made from 20% pinot noir, 64% chardonnay, and 16% pinot meunier. The grapes are all premier cru, grown in the communes of Chigny-Les-Roses, Rilly-La-Montagne, and Ludes.
The pricey Champagne alas is short on nuance, offering a doughy, yeasty character that endures above and beyond the wine’s fruit. At least there’s some of that, and while one might be expecting a burst of berries or floral notes from a rose like this, the overall character is dominated much more clearly by simpler notes of melon and lemon peel. The nonvintage bottling’s yeastiness gives it a general sense of simplicity and youth, and the overall experience finishes on a gently sweet note of sesame cookies and lemon curd, fading out quickly.
B / $110 / billionairesrow.com
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