Tasting the Wines of Sella & Mosca, 2021 Releases
Did you know that Sardinia didn’t split off from Italy: It was once attached to France, and as such its soil and terroir are closer to that of Provence than nearer Sicily or Tuscany. Sella & Mosca is one of the most noteworthy wineries on this unique island, and today we make a return visit to these wines, for the first time since 2013.
2018 Sella & Mosca Torbato Brut DOC – 100% torbato, sparkling. A creamier take on Prosecco, this mix of brioche, lemon curd, and fresh-cut grass is refreshing but uncomplicated, a palatable aperitif, complete with an amply acidic and citrusy finish. B / $24
2018 Sella & Mosca Terre Bianche Alghero Torbato DOC – 100% torbato. Melon notes offer a lightly fragrant nose, hinting at almonds. First sips have some petrol pungency, but in time that blows off and a broader fruit character imbues the palate, again more focused on melon, with some saline notes giving it a real antipasto feel. Lingering notes of almond, honeysuckle, and a note of lime round out the finish. B / $21
2020 Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino di Sardegna DOC – Floral, soft, and again showing some melon notes and a hint of brine. Quite creamy on the palate, again the finish is quite nutty and soothing. Vermentino normally strikes me as rather more acidic, but this expression still manages to excite with its clearer focus on floral elements. B+ / $14
2018 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva DOC – What’s cannonau? Pro tip: Cannonau is the same grape as grenache. This expression of the wine has a slight smokiness, alongside a powerful note of plums and blackberries, backed up by subdued graphite and a mild layer of spice. A currant element is bolder on the finish, but the wine remains a bit enigmatic and restrained. B+ / $17 [BUY IT NOW FROM TOTAL WINE]
2015 Sella & Mosca Tanca Farra Alghero Rosso DOC – 50% cannonau, 50% cabernet sauvignon. This is an unusual but quite delightful little blend, settling down nicely as it shows a gentle plum character, informed by cassis and a layer of spice, alongside a finish of buttery vanilla and blackberry cream. Well-balanced, the wine’s tannins melt into its fruit-forward attack, giving the finish a slight note of chocolate sauce, touched with earthy graphite. A- / $30
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