Egan’s Irish Whiskey Legacy Reserve line is now an annual incarnation, and in year three it’s gained yet another year of age statement, bringing it up to 17 years old from its original 15. After 17 years in bourbon oak, this year’s finishing is done in French Cadillac AOC casks, which are used to age a sweet white wine similar to Sauternes.

To my great surprise, it’s not my favorite of the Legacy Reserve line, by a wide margin. The nose is brisk with lemon — fading toward lemongrass — with some camphor emerging after time in glass. It’s surprisingly a bit sharp, not mellow and soothing the way I’d expect from a whisky of this advanced age.

The palate kicks off with a bold apple note that recalls Calvados, another surprise, though this is soon replaced with a growing caramel note that feels relatively traditional. Notes of sandalwood are well evident, followed by a finish that features plenty of toasty cereal notes that feel late to the party. There’s a chocolate hint late in the game, but it’s mild, and not enough to elevate this bottling beyond some fairly straightforward basics.

At this price, and given the pedigree of the series to date, I’d hoped for more.

92 proof.

B+ / $200

Egan's Single Malt Irish Whiskey Legacy Reserve Volume III 17 Years Old

$200

8.5

Rating

8.5/10

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