One look at the light color of this wine and it immediately shows itself as an atypical Barolo. The nose however shows itself as fairly iconic: dense and earthy, with a layer of roasted mushrooms and balsamic notes that segue from there into intense notes of black fruit, tar, rhubarb, and tobacco. From there everything starts to blend into a ragu of umami, though the lightness of the body quickly becomes evident, unfortunately to the detriment of the overall experience. A wine this light in body could really use more acidity to prop it up. As it stands, the earth-heavy notes are immersive, but a bit out of balance.

B+ / $65 / renatoratti.com

2016 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco DOCG

$65

8.5

Rating

8.5/10

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Christopher Null

Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content company.

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