One look at the light color of this wine and it immediately shows itself as an atypical Barolo. The nose however shows itself as fairly iconic: dense and earthy, with a layer of roasted mushrooms and balsamic notes that segue from there into intense notes of black fruit, tar, rhubarb, and tobacco. From there everything starts to blend into a ragu of umami, though the lightness of the body quickly becomes evident, unfortunately to the detriment of the overall experience. A wine this light in body could really use more acidity to prop it up. As it stands, the earth-heavy notes are immersive, but a bit out of balance.
B+ / $65 / renatoratti.com