Review: Wines of Marchesi di Gresy, 2020 Releases
Formally known as Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy, you’ll find this Piedmontese Barbaresco-based operation sprawling across four estates across the prestigious Langhe and Monferrato zones. The Marchesi di Grésy estate has been owned by the di Grésy family since 1797. Prior to the 1960s it produced a variety of livestock and other crops in addition to grapes for wine production. Per the company, Alberto di Grésy started vinifying his own wines in 1973 after many years of selling fruit.
Today, Marchesi di Grésy cultivates and vinifies 88 acres of estate vineyards from their Monte Aribaldo, La Serra, Monte Colombo, and Martinenga estates. Martinenga is one of Barbaresco’s most exceptional “Crus” as it is the only single family-owned “monopole” vineyard in the region. It is from this single vineyard that Marchesi di Grésy produces their exceptional Barbarescos: Martinenga, Gaiun and Camp Gros Riserva from several different clones of the Nebbiolo grape. The Martinegna vineyard also is home to the only experimental vineyard for Nebbiolo clonal selection in the area, where eleven different clones are studied and monitored to better understand how they each respond to environmental and climate changes.
Marchesi di Grésy cultivates Barbera d’Asti, Moscato d’Asti and Merlot at their La Serra vineyard near Monferatto, where clay-based soils and a unique microclimate provide an ideal environment for these varieties. The winery produces their Dolcetto d’Alba, Chardonnay and Sauvignon from their Monte Aribaldo estate, a 1,200-foot elevation vineyard made of calcareous and volcanic soil. In addition to grape growing, in 2019 the di Grésy family opened Dai Grésy in Langa, a luxury agriturismo and spa perched among the Dolcetto vines at Monte Aribaldo.
Today we look at four wines from Marchesi di Grésy’s 2020 releases. Thoughts follow.
2018 Marchesi di Grésy Barbera d’Asti DOCG – Surprisingly bright and fruity, this has the zing of a Zinfandel and the body of a silky Burgundy. Tart cherry melds with sweet strawberry, with a level of complexity beneath that offers notes of rosemary, vanilla, and baking spice. Lots going on, with everything in balance. Best value. A / $19
2019 Marchesi di Grésy Nebbiolo Martinenga Langhe DOC – Heavy with cherries but rather light in body, this wine offers considerable secondary elements of strawberry and raspberry, fading to a slight note of tea leaf and cola as it develops in the glass. The finish is mild but long, slightly sweet with hints of orange blossoms and a light lashing of tannins. B+ / $26
2017 Marchesi di Grésy Martinenga Barbaresco DOCG – Amazingly thin up top, this wine is so gossamer that it feels almost flighty and unserious. The color is just this side of hot pink. It’s not just light in body, it’s thin in flavor, offering a mild cherry and strawberry character, with hints of cedar chest evident. The palate finds a groove as it develops in glass, and the finish builds to a crescendo that finally sees some tannin and more barrel influence. It finishes big, but the up-front is so mysteriously lacking that overcoming that attack is nearly impossible. B / $65
2019 Marchesi di Grésy Moscato d’Asti La Serra DOCG – Lightly frizzante, this is a bracing expression of moscato, moderately sweet with ample notes of peach and apricot, and a gentle floral character emerging in short order. The finish is all honey and candied peaches (or peach candies, your pick). B / $17
2018 Marchesi di Grésy Barbera d'Asti DOCG
$19
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