Review: Wines of Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore, 2020 Releases
We’ve written about the wines of the Marco Felluga family in the past, an operation which spans two estates in Northwest Italy. All four wines in this roundup come from Felluga’s holdings in Collio, in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
2019 Marco Felluga Mongris Pinot Grigio Collio DOC – A seductive pinot grigio (aged in stainless on the lees for 6 months), this well-structured wine is full of notes of walnuts and sesame oil, with some citrus squeezed across the top. The wine’s acidity becomes more lively as the finish builds, but there’s a sort of lemon cream note on the back end that really soothes the palate and adds some complexity. A- / $20 [BUY IT NOW FROM THE WHISKY EXCHANGE]
2015 Marco Felluga Molamatta Collio DOC – 40% friulano, 40% pinot bianco, and 20% ribolla gialla aged 18 months in a blend of stainless steel and oak casks. Initially a bit on the green side, the wine emerges on the tongue to showcase a palate that is moderately oaky with notes of coconut and almonds. There’s a hint of California chardonnay here, with a gently lemon/lime-oriented character emerging as the wine begins to warm up. The finish however remains doughy and a bit on the earthy side, with some rosemary elements lingering. B+ / $26
2018 Russiz Superiore Sauvignon Collio DOC – This is 100% estate fruit from Russiz Superiore’s Collio vineyards. 15% of the grape must was aged in new french oak barrels, the rest 8 months on the lees in stainless steel. That said, the wine shows only a mild hint of its barrel regimen, instead letting some traditional grassy notes, brisk lemon and grapefruit peel, and a modest ammonia character all well represented. Some creaminess on the finish does at least temper the aggressive acidity. B / $29
2017 Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc Collio DOC – 100% cabernet franc. Bold with notes of chocolates and currants, with a silky tannic backbone that gives the wine a substantial structure. A woody licorice note provides the finish with intensity and gravity, with a brambly blackberry note lingering for ages. Pair this with a hearty meal with some acidity to it (tomato sauce, etc.). B+ / $31
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