This pinot noir is the flagship wine of Tolosa Winery, arguably the blue chip operation in the quirky, remote Edna Valley of California.
Bright and citrusy, this is a surprising wine that kicks off its ultralight body with unusual notes of strawberry and pineapple, before settling into a more familiar groove that blends notes of graphite and licorice with a fruity strawberry and maraschino cherry character. The finish offers some tea leaf and cola notes — more traditional components of a California pinot noir — while the conclusion keeps the focus on sweetness. Some notes of cooked bacon and a touch of smoke creep into the finish, too.
It’s an interesting wine and, again, unusual — but probably not for everyone.
B+ / $70 / tolosawinery.com