Review: 2017 Markham The Altruist
Napa-based Markham has launched a new wine called The Altruist, a charity-focused bottling made in partnership with the Gary Sinise Foundation, whose mission is “to serve our nation by honoring our defenders, veterans, first responders, their families, and those in need.”
This Bordeaux-style blend comprises 66% merlot, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot, 5% malbec, and 5% cabernet franc. Let’s give it a try.
A bit dusty up front, the wine initially runs to notes of wet earth, blackberry bramble, and stewed prunes, coming across as austere and a little overblown on the palate, at least at first. With time all of these elements settle down to reveal a softer side, where blackberry fruit mingles with tobacco and leather to create a more rounded, balanced wine. It takes some doing to get there — and it pairs best with a hearty meal — but it’s worth the journey.
B+ / $30 / markhamvineyards.com
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