Review: Chianti Wines of Selvapiana, 2020 Releases
Fattoria Selvapiana is a storied producer in Chianti Rufina, the smallest subzone in the Chianti region. The winery recently dropped its 2020 releases, four of which we review below.
2018 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG – Focused cherry notes are tinged with graphite and a touch of saddle leather, with a slight milk chocolate bent emerging as the finish evolves. Soft up front, with a lightly bittersweet conclusion. A lovely, but elevated, pizza wine. B+ / $17
2016 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva Bucerchiale DOCG – Quite tart and heavy with cherry notes, becoming overwhelming at times with a hefty herbal/olive note and an intense sourness that lingers on the finish. Ample forest floor notes give this wine a brooding character that places it on the heavy, serious side of Chianti. Could definitely stand more aging; right now it’s a bit of a tight monster that recalls young Bordeaux at times. B / $37
2016 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Vigneto Erchi DOCG – A somewhat softer expression of Selvapiana, but not by much — it’s still got a tight backbone that keeps the focus on dried berries, black cherry, and a spray of spices — though here a floral note emerges that you don’t see in some of the other Selvapiana wines. This helps the finish to find its center, culminating in a lightly chocolate-scented character. Good stuff now, but it will be even better in 5-10 years. A- / $48
2015 Selvapiana Pomino Rosso Villa Di Petrognano DOC – From a tiny region in Chianti, this is 60% Sangiovese and 20% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Easily the most balanced wine in the collection, this expression is thick with notes of black cherry and licorice, filtered through notes of cola, tea leaf, and a hint of coffee bean. Refined and silky, its tannins just on the edge of settling down, there’s still room for growth as the wine’s lightly bitter notes temper further to bring out notes of dried fruit and forest floor. I’d hang on to this for a few years. Outstanding value. A / $21