Review: Chicken Cock Straight Rye and Ryeteous Blonde
Two new expressions from the burgeoning Chicken Cock brand, a straightforward Kentucky rye and more unusual beer barrel-finished rye. Production details — and our thoughts — all follow.
Chicken Cock Straight Rye -A Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey to follow up on Chicken Cock’s Straight Bourbon, this spirit was made in partnership with the Bardstown Bourbon Company from a mash of 95% rye and 5% malted barley. No age statement. It’s bold on the nose, dramatic with the traditionally spiced trappings of rye whiskey, all cloves and nutmeg, though there’s clearly some immature stock in this blend. A heavy wood component and some rough alcohol notes give the whiskey a significant youthfulness, with ample barrel char dominating the bulk of the palate. The finish sweetens up well enough, though a well-toasted cereal note never quite fades, and the whiskey never comes across as particularly elevated. At this price, I had hoped for a whole lot more. 90 proof. B / $75
Chicken Cock Ryeteous Blonde – This limited edition offering, which starts with the same rye as above, is made in partnership with Louisville’s Goodwood Brewing. “Six barrels of this very special, high-quality Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey were finished in original Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Bourbon barrels that were used by Goodwood to age their Blonde Ale. Once the ale had completed its finishing process in the Chicken Cock Bourbon barrels and the beer removed for consumption, the barrels were then shipped back to the distillery and refilled with Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey.” The beer influence is instantly evident on the nose, taking this whiskey in a much different direction from the start. Malty and hoppy, it’s thick with a mix of herbal elements, petrol, and a somewhat off, brown butter note. The palate takes a bit of a diversion, and while the beer element is just as powerful as on the nose, it’s distinctly different here — bittersweet, pungent, oily, and slightly acrid — almost sulfurous at times. The finish mixes all of the above into a funky slurry, culminating in a considerably unbalanced, sometimes baffling spirit. 90 proof. C+ / $95
Chicken Cock Straight Rye
$75
