Here’s a yin-yang of wines from Napa’s Black Stallion Winery, a low-end chardonnay alongside one of its vineyard designate cabernets.
2018 Black Stallion Heritage Chardonnay Napa Valley – This is Black Stallion’s entry level chardonnay, and if you’re a fan of oak, well, you’ll love it. The overwhelmingly buttery wine features a heavy extraction of oak and vanilla up front; after that fades, the wine moves into a realm of coconut and figs. A hint of citrus acidity on the finish brightens it up a little bit, but there’s so much oak and vanilla here the wine feels a bit like it needs a cake cutter to properly serve it. B / $28
2017 Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon Gaspare Vineyard – Gaspare Vineyard is an estate-owned vineyard in Napa’s Oak Knoll region, and this 2017 cabernet is a pushy wine made from said vineyard’s grapes. There’s a ton of tannin here, and the fistful of blackberries, currants, and blueberries just can’t stand up to the intense body and lingering bitterness. Slightly doughy on the finish, and indistinct at this point in time. This is a wine that might benefit from a few more years in bottle — or it may never see a dramatic improvement. B / $75