A burly, ruddy wine, Isthmus (89% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 1% merlot) is a powerhouse of extracted fruit — almost pruny — with overwhelming blackcurrant notes, plus notes of tar, tea leaf, and cola. Unctuous on the body but thick with chewy tannins that make for a heavily earthy finish, the wine is a dense and unyielding experience that needs some time in the cellar to temper.

B- / $85 / hamelfamilywines.com

2016 Hamel Isthmus Red Wine Sonoma Valley

$85

7

Rating

7.0/10

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Christopher Null

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