Here’s a pair of wines from Paso Robles’ Volatus. If some of the names sound familiar, it’s because co-owner Victoria Schmitt’s father was Supertramp’s drummer.
On to the wines.
2016 Volatus “Bloody Well Right” Tannat Paso Robles – 100% tannat — unusual, to say the least. The wine is a hefty beast, pushy with earth, eucalyptus, and pencil lead, all filtered through blackberry brambles and tarry currant notes. Very drying with a significant level of tannin; this could settle down in a few years to become more approachable. B / $34
2018 Volatus CAVU Paso Robles Willow Creek District – A blend of 67% viognier and 33% roussanne. It’s softer than you’d think, with none of the expressive peach and floral notes that one expects from a viognier-heavy blend. Instead, the wine comes across as doughy and flat, finishing not with fruit but with a thud that barely hints at white flowers. It’s drinkable but never interesting — though I’d happily cook with it. C+ / $28