Review: 2019 Tio Pepe Fino En Rama
It’s the 10th anniversary of “Tio Pepe En Rama,” the Jerez winery’s special edition Fino style sherry that is bottled unclarified and unfiltered. 67 casks were used to create this 2019 bottling, which is intended to be consumed as young as possible.
As with the 2018, this sherry has all the trappings of a classic Fino. Boldly oxidized and pungent, it exudes notes of mushroom, rice wine vinegar, and miso, the densely musty note of flor imbuing the experience with a heavily yeasty character. I find the 2019 bottling a bit more off-putting than the 2018, but on the other hand, this visceral quality may be just the thing to which sherry nuts gravitate. Alas, the quite sour finish is a bit too heavy for me, without any real fruit character to cut through the haze with an acidic lift.
B / $30 / gonzalezbyassusa.com
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