Review: Mark Ryan 2018 Viognier and 2017 The Dissident
Washington-based Mark Ryan Winery is back with two new releases, an aromatic white and an age-worthy red. Thoughts follow.
2018 Mark Ryan Viognier Olsen Vineyard/Red Willow Vineyard – Quite dry, but loaded with floral and herbal notes, this Washington expression of viognier dials down the peaches and apricots and lets honeysuckle character shine more clearly. The finish is rather lemon-heavy, with a surprising layer of baking spice on the back end. Quite lovely. A- / $35
2017 Mark Ryan The Dissident Red Wine – This Bordeaux style blend (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot) offers a pushy graphite and earth note, heavy on the tar with an intense black fruit character behind it. Sweetness is elusive, with greener elements dominating for the bulk of the experience. Expressive with hints of cinnamon, clove, and black pepper, it’s a savory sipper all the way through to the finish, when at last a sweet, almost prune-like, element emerges… and which is a bit at odds with what’s come before. B+ / $40
2017 Mark Ryan The Dissident Red Wine
$40
