Review: Troegs Boysenberry Tart Ale
Troegs Independent Brewing, founded in 1997 by Chris and John Trogner in Pennsylvania, has created something special with this new sour ale. As a sour brewed with lactobacillus, coriander, and sea salt, Boysenberry Tart Ale is made decidedly in the Gose style. Gose originated in the Middle Ages in the town of Goslar on the Gose River in Germany, although now it is associated with Leipzing, where it was popular during the late 1800s. Production of Gose ceased in 1966 but has been revived by talented American breweries such as Troegs.
Sour fanatics, let me make this clear: You need to taste this beer. It common to infuse Goses with fruit, and it seems like every producer has their fruit of choice. Troeg’s choice of boysenberry, a cross of raspberry, blackberry, dewberry, and loganberry, is brilliant. Not as sweet as cherry nor as light and fragrant as raspberry, boysenberry offers a perfect counterpoint to the beer’s musty, sour yogurt aromas. Keeping true to style, there is no hop character here, but the beer doesn’t need it. The fruit, coriander, and funky lactobacillus are all in a taut balance, presenting all the complexity the beer needs. Things get even better on the palate: The acidity is refreshing rather than sharp, the sea salt and coriander enhance the beers flavors, and the simple, pleasant flavor of the boysenberry tempers the challenging nature of a lacto-fermented beer. I don’t see how a fruit-infused Gose gets any better.
A / $11 per six-pack / troegs.com
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