It’s a special treat from France for today, wine lovers: A pair of white Burgundies from the maestros at Olivier Leflaive, representing two extremes (in price) of the winery’s lineup.
2016 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Les Setilles – What a bright and lovely white Burgundy, as pure expression of Chardonnay as you’ll likely find in a wine at this price point. Golden apples are instantly bright, with a lightly buttery note that adds some oomph to the body. A gentle lacing of herbs, white flowers, a hint of red berries, and a dash of vanilla at the back end all serve to give the wine remarkable complexity. Best value, easy. A / $20
2016 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet – A lively wine with similar character to the Les Setilles, this expression has a slightly higher acidity with a stronger lemon tone. Creamy as the palate develops toward the finish, the wine later exudes notes of brown butter, baking spice, and a hint of berry. Again, a fine example of white Burgundy, though this one will cost you. A / $72