Review: 2016 Count Karolyi Gruner Veltliner

Hungarian gruner, eh? I suppose it’s not so strange — after all, Austria and Hungary used to be one country.

This wine is extremely dry, offering notes of tart green apple, grapefruit, and a lengthy mineral character that offers notes of flint and steel. Hints of peach and apricot linger on the finish — though a dusky, earthy note eventually comes to the fore. That said, as the wine warms a bit, some gentle floral notes emerge, particularly on the nose. This is a bit more sour than a typical Austrian gruner, but perfectly approachable and, let’s be honest, a curious novelty, too.

B / $13 / quintessentialwines.com

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